Restoring a 371.513 Full Lume Formula One +part numbers/specs

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It never occurred to me that the dials could be printed inaccurately! I've noticed previously where a watch can be bang on at the 12 and then off at the 7, usually on the old F1s. My wife has one watch that is nowhere near on any marks, I think it might be her green diamond hour Aquaracer. It doesn't seem to bother her so I didn't point it out. 😁
Yes, it's definitely a "thing" just printed a little out of register.
Not hitting any markers is just poor set up though. It's something that really bothers some people and others couldn't care less 🤣
 
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You can get a bit of second hand "bounce" sometimes, probably a bit of backlash in the wheel train.

🤣 That sort of perfectionism will take you a long way in watchmaking!
Thanks. I think I'm just overly critical because it's my own work.

It's probably related to the wheel train as you say, since the section of the dial where it can be slightly off will change over time. At best it hits maybe 70% of the dots dead center, at worse around 55%.

I just checked all my other quartz watches, which I never scrutinized as heavily before this project. Only a few are nearly perfect in regard to hitting all second's marks dead center 100%. I'd classify my work as the next tier below, as good or better than most of my other quartz pieces. So, I'm at peace now after doing this comparison. 😮‍💨

Some shots of my adjusted second hand at various positions. Not perfect, but good enough for me. 😀
 
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Thanks. I think I'm just overly critical because it's my own work.

It's probably related to the wheel train as you say, since the section of the dial where it can be slightly off will change over time. At best it hits maybe 70% of the dots dead center, at worse around 55%.

I just checked all my other quartz watches, which I never scrutinized as heavily before this project. Only a few are nearly perfect in regard to hitting all second's marks dead center 100%. I'd classify my work as the next tier below, as good or better than most of my other quartz pieces. So, I'm at peace now after doing this comparison. 😮‍💨

Some shots of my adjusted second hand at various positions. Not perfect, but good enough for me. 😀
Yeah, I know that feeling. Sometimes perfection just isn't achievable.
What you have done there is very acceptable and maybe better than it was before?
Considering it's the first time you've done this it's actually very impressive.

There are a lot of jobbing repairers working on quartz watches who wouldn't bother going to anything like these lengths, stick the second hand on and it lands where it lands!
 
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Angle of view is of course everything, but from my screen it looks like ya nailed it, well done! 👍
 
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Yeah, I know that feeling. Sometimes perfection just isn't achievable.
What you have done there is very acceptable and maybe better than it was before?
Considering it's the first time you've done this it's actually very impressive.

There are a lot of jobbing repairers working on quartz watches who wouldn't bother going to anything like these lengths, stick the second hand on and it lands where it lands!
Thank you! Since I had difficulty just getting it to sit on the post during my first attempt, I lazily left it where it landed. It seemed close enough at the time, but it really wasn't.
Angle of view is of course everything, but from my screen it looks like ya nailed it, well done! 👍
Thanks! I tried to take these pics like how my eyes sees them when it's basically centered. But like I said, it's not perfect and can be slightly off center on certain dots.

However, compared to my first attempt below, it's much better now. Even when slightly off center, the hand is still pretty close to the dot, whereas before it wasn't.

it's been a great learning experience in more ways than one. Not only for watchmaking, but I also learned something about Import Duty under the new US Tariffs, as I bought the movement from overseas.

The import duty was minimal, but there's now an added processing fee just for US Customs to calculate the tax. That ended up being about a $18 fee, which is not dependent on the value of the item. Meaning if one were to import something worth $5, you'd still get hit with this same $18 processing fee according to DHL.
 
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Thank you! Since I had difficulty just getting it to sit on the post during my first attempt, I lazily left it where it landed. It seemed close enough at the time, but it really wasn't.

Thanks! I tried to take these pics like how my eyes sees them when it's basically centered. But like I said, it's not perfect and can be slightly off center on certain dots.

However, compared to my first attempt below, it's much better now. Even when slightly off center, the hand is still pretty close to the dot, whereas before it wasn't.

it's been a great learning experience in more ways than one. Not only for watchmaking, but I also learned something about Import Duty under the new US Tariffs, as I bought the movement from overseas.

The import duty was minimal, but there's now an added processing fee just for US Customs to calculate the tax. That ended up being about a $18 fee, which is not dependent on the value of the item. Meaning if one were to import something worth $5, you'd still get hit with this same $18 processing fee according to DHL.
Do you think you'll push further down the watchmaking road?

You never stop learning really. I still come across things that make me scratch my head and I suppose I started teaching myself 20 something years ago.
It's very satisfying and I find it quite therapeutic.
I'll put a pic up of something out of my collection I serviced recently that made me think a bit!

That's pretty rough with the processing fee.
Here we pay no duty or fees on imports under £135, we do have 20% value added tax though, that is added at source for UK sales, be that Ebay or Ali X etc.

This is something from my collection, I have quite a lot of US pocket watches.
This is an 1857 grade American Watch Co (Waltham). Low serial number dates it to 1868 and its still in its 4 ounce silver hunter case.
Lots of things on these that we no longer see on modern movements, undersprung balance, adjustable banking pins, pinned dial feet and pinned hairspring. Adjustable timing screws on the balance wheel, you can increase or decrease the mass by turning the screws.
I was a bit nervous of it but actually it was lovely to work on.

This watch was already 8 years old when the the Battle of Little Bighorn took place and keeps time within 10 seconds a day, mind blowing really!
 
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Thanks. I think I'm just overly critical because it's my own work.

It's probably related to the wheel train as you say, since the section of the dial where it can be slightly off will change over time. At best it hits maybe 70% of the dots dead center, at worse around 55%.

I just checked all my other quartz watches, which I never scrutinized as heavily before this project. Only a few are nearly perfect in regard to hitting all second's marks dead center 100%. I'd classify my work as the next tier below, as good or better than most of my other quartz pieces. So, I'm at peace now after doing this comparison. 😮‍💨

Some shots of my adjusted second hand at various positions. Not perfect, but good enough for me. 😀
Damn you Mspeedster, these shots really make me with I hadn't sold my grey/yellow F1. Such a cool dial.
 
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Damn you Mspeedster, these shots really make me with I hadn't sold my grey/yellow F1. Such a cool dial.
You can always buy another one! 😉
 
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Do you think you'll push further down the watchmaking road?
Absolutely, but one step at a time. All of my work so far has been out of necessity and only on relatively inexpensive vintage pieces. I don't know if I'll ever build up the courage to work on an expensive modern timepiece.

My yellow/grey Formula 1 had been on my to do list for a while. But I was hesitant because it's quite sentimental, as my very first TAG, and I didn't want to screw it up. Your post gave me the motivation to just dive in and do it. 👍
This is something from my collection, I have quite a lot of US pocket watches.
This is an 1857 grade American Watch Co (Waltham). Low serial number dates it to 1868 and its still in its 4 ounce silver hunter case.
Lots of things on these that we no longer see on modern movements, undersprung balance, adjustable banking pins, pinned dial feet and pinned hairspring. Adjustable timing screws on the balance wheel, you can increase or decrease the mass by turning the screws.
I was a bit nervous of it but actually it was lovely to work on.

This watch was already 8 years old when the the Battle of Little Bighorn took place and keeps time within 10 seconds a day, mind blowing really!
That's going way back! Thanks for sharing. Funny you should bring that up. Another watch that has been on my to do list is this antique Gruen pocket watch. I inherited the watch from my grandfather. Have no idea how old it is, and it's never worked in the time I've had it.

I don't really have an interest in pocket watches but thought I should get it running again someday. Probably by using a local watchmaker. But if I ever become proficient in watchmaking, maybe another DIY project. 🤔
 
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Absolutely, but one step at a time.

My yellow/grey Formula 1 had been on my to do list for a while. But I was hesitant because it's quite sentimental. Your post gave me the motivation to just dive in and do it. 👍

Another watch that has been on my to do list is this antique Gruen pocket watch. I inherited the watch from my grandfather. Have no idea how old it is, and it's never worked in the time I've had it.
That's absolutely the way to do it,build up slowly so you don't lose confidence by taking on something more than than you chew at an early stage.

Nice to know I gave you the push to do the Formula 1.
There was quite a bit of jeopardy involved there because the watch has meaning to you. Sometimes that's a good thing, sharpens your focus !
I said at the beginning that I thought you'd be good at this, I haven't changed my view 👍

Your Gruen is 1920 - 1930 I would say, classic dial style for that period. Nice watch, looks in good cosmetic shape👍
 
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You can always buy another one! 😉
I could... but they are all way more than mine sold for and mine was MINT too. So annoying. Bloody Kith!

I did find this though


They want $1200.

So no.
 
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I could... but they are all way more than mine sold for and mine was MINT too. So annoying. Bloody Kith!

I did find this though


They want $1200.

So no.
A bargain compared to the crazy asking price of this one! 🤪
 
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BTW Rob (@Aquagraph), what amazes me about the asking prices of these Tokoro Edition F1 watches is that it's a relatively obscure collab. I guess it's just the rarity of the watch (or the awesome color combo).

I'd bet most potential buyers don't even know the origin of the Tokoro edition, unless they're from Japan or familiar with Japanese culture. The collaboration was done with Japanese comedian/tv personality George Tokoro, who is also a car enthusiast. He's rather famous in Japan, but probably not known to the rest of the world.

I've seen other Tokoro collabs with cars, e.g. Hot Wheels diecasts and Fujimi plastic model kits. I've read he also did a watch collab with Seiko.

George Tokoro in his younger days.

A more recent pic.
 
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You're right Mspeedster, no idea what that was. All these special ones seem to be Japanese, except the Van Halen one of course...
 
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This one might also be Japanese related, TOM'S Racing World Sports Prototype Championship
Racing Team. Originally listed at US$2,300 it’s now on ‘sale’ for $1,900.
 
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Yes I think the Tom's racing is also Japanese.
There is a Mazda collab with EUNOS on the dial too.
I'd quite like one of those as I own a 1990 JDM Eunos V Spec.
 
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This one might also be Japanese related, TOM'S Racing World Sports Prototype Championship
Racing Team. Originally listed at US$2,300 it’s now on ‘sale’ for $1,900.
That is one I wouldn't mind owning, but not for what people are selling them at these days. TOM's is actually quite famous for those who follow JDM motorsport or played the Grand Turismo video games. They race and tune mainly Toyotas.

Yes I think the Tom's racing is also Japanese.
There is a Mazda collab with EUNOS on the dial too.
I'd quite like one of those as I own a 1990 JDM Eunos V Spec.
Love the Eunos dial too and was a big fan of the original car, known as the Miata in the US. I used to own a second gen 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata MX-5 Turbo, fun car.
 
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You're right Mspeedster, no idea what that was. All these special ones seem to be Japanese, except the Van Halen one of course...
Yup, most are from Japan and have something to do with racing or cars. However, the other obscure one is the Hot Dog 10th anniversary edition. A collab with a Japanese magazine.
 
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That is one I wouldn't mind owning, but not for what people are selling them at these days. TOM's is actually quite famous for those who follow JDM motorsport or played the Grand Turismo video games. They race and tune mainly Toyotas.


Love the Eunos dial too and was a big fan of the original car, known as the Miata in the US. I used to own a second gen 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata MX-5 Turbo, fun car.
Too much in common! 🤣
I didnt know they did a turbo!
Great cars, loads of fun to drive.
Mine is a MK1,imported from Japan around 2004.
British racing green with tan leather and hood and the beautiful wooden Nardi wheel. It's my summer toy 👍
 
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Too much in common! 🤣
I didnt know they did a turbo!
Great cars, loads of fun to drive.
Mine is a MK1,imported from Japan around 2004.
British racing green with tan leather and hood and the beautiful wooden Nardi wheel. It's my summer toy 👍
A friend of mine had one of them, brand new UK model MX5 v1 , when they had only been around for a year or so , and when we looked under the bonnet, the gaping hole where the turbo "should" have been sitting was pretty obvious! 😁 IIRC they were designed specifically to allow for a turbo, but it wasn't added to the early cars (or something like that)

My missus has a unreasonable attraction to the last gen variant.... in it's Fiat 124 Abarth guise! 😁

(unreasonable in that she still hasn't passed her test...)