Restoring a 371.513 Full Lume Formula One +part numbers/specs

rudiculous

Great write up and useful information, thank you for sharing!!

Mspeedster

Thanks to @Thehighwayman's tutorial, my original 382.513 lives again!

My simple DIY movement swap's journey:
1. Original movement ('86 first year) opened up, ready for replacement.

2. Old movement is out. Photograph of the hand's placement for my own reference, prior to hands removal.

3. Dial plate is off, easy peasy (again thanks to @Thehighwayman's explanation of how the feet are secured). New 965.313 movement is ready for install.

4. Dial and hands are now installed on the new movement. Attaching the seconds hand was definitely the hardest part. Getting it to sit on the post was like threading a needle! The hour and minute hands were simple in comparison.

5. New movement is safely back in the case. Swapping the coil cover with the TAG Heuer date stamp preserves the original look, albeit not the original movement anymore (sadly).

6. Good to go!!!

Thehighwayman

Nice job Michael !
Sounds like it was trouble free?

Thehighwayman

Yes, the hour hand sits very close to the dial on these. Sometimes they are so close you can barely get a dial protector underneath let alone hand removers.
You found a working solution without damaging anything 👍

Good sense of achievement at the end I hope!

Mspeedster

Yeah, my Bergeon dial protector could not slide all the way under to reach the stem. I tried wiggling it off with the protector first but that didn’t work.

All in all it went fairly smoothly. Happy I could do it myself, rather than sending it to Justin again. 🍻

Aquagraph

Well done. The more I read of The Highwayman's threads the more I am sure I am better off paying people who know what they are doing to do this stuff for me.

Thehighwayman

Parts and specs.

The movements in the Formula One's vary. Very early watches can have a Ronda SA 705 or an ETA 965.313
Most later watches you will find have an ETA 555.412 0r 955.412. You can use any 555/955.4XX movement as a replacement providing it's not a two hand version.Check the photos of a potential replacement to make sure it has a second hand pinion. There are also some versions with date at 6,these can be used after swapping the date wheel.
If you need a circuit and coil you can use one from the ubiquitous 555/955.112 or any of the many variants as well as those from the 555/955.4XX series.Although the 955.112 is a 11.5 ligne movement vs 10.5 the difference is in the movement plate the circuits are the same size.

If want to go modern, the ETA F05.115 is a straight swap. Personally, I like the old Normline movements,they were built to be serviced,they are period correct and they look nicer to my eye.

Hand sizes for the 955.412 are 120/70/20 or 1.2mm , 0.7mm and 0.2mm , the earlier ETA 965.313 has different hand sizes 130/80/20 and different dial feet positions. Research suggests the early movement cannot be directly swapped with the later one.

Mspeedster

I noticed that the movement in two of my other F1s is the ETA 955.414. I don't own a F1 with the 955.412. Do you know what the difference is between 955.414 vs 955.412? Are they 100% interchangeable with the hands and dial feet?

Mspeedster

An additional post note. After a day of watching my second hand being slightly off the hash marks, my OCD nature kicked in. I couldn't take it not being spot on.

So, I redid the dreaded second hand installation again. Got it to where it's pretty much dead center on most dots. This wasn't easy. I had to get the hand just barely sitting on the stem and then tap it ever so slightly with a toothpick. But the stem would also rotate when tapped during the hand position adjustment and thus took multiple attempts to get it just right.

I have a much better appreciation for what the pros must do in order to get the second hand to hit the mark perfectly on quartz movements.

Thehighwayman

Well done, that is tough to get right first time even for pros. As you rightly said the the shaft can rotate and the second hand can also rotate on the shaft until fully seated.
Some dials are not accurately printed either, you can have the hand bang on and then it drifts off because the markers are slightly out. Nothing you can do when that happens.

You're showing all the attributes of someone who's going to be good at this 👍
Not least, a willingness to go back in because somethings not quite right.

I've relumed the same set of hands 3x today in the search for a good match to lightly aged tritium on a dial. None of us get everything right first time!

Mspeedster

I noticed that it's centered on some dots and just ever so slightly off on others. It gets off when sweeping around a certain portion of the dial. However, which portion of the dial seems to change with time, sometimes it's the bottom half, sometimes it's the right half.

I was trying to figure out if it's the dial printing, or the dial being attached a fraction off center, or just a quirk in the movement's movement. But it's good enough that I can live with it.

I spent 10 minutes comparing two new red F1 Solargraphs at the store before deciding which to buy. Because neither watch's second hand was absolutely perfect hitting the marks, so I picked the one which was closest to perfection in my eye. LOL