Restoring a 371.513 Full Lume Formula One +part numbers/specs

Mspeedster · Oct 23, 2025

Thehighwayman
Depends on the watch. Perfectly possible to do an F1 crystal with the bezel still on but since they are very easy to remove I take them off.
The Moondust I left the bezel in place for crystal fitting because they are notoriously hard to remove. Since it's turning smoothly with no grittiness I take the view if its not broken don't fix it!

Often a slim case knife and some care is all you need to remove a bezel. Get one side lifted and work around from there. I'd only use the case knife method on a F1 bezel, they are easy to remove and too fragile for heavy duty tools.

Tool wise, there are various types of bezel removers. All are pretty effective.
There is the plier type like this.

Or the Horotec style like this.

Works on the principle of getting under the bezel and applying equal lifting pressure to pop them off.

My preference is for the Horotec type, they aren't vastly expensive.

Thanks!

I haven't had the need to change either crystal or bezel on any of my F1s. The thought of removing a plastic bezel on a plastic case is a little scary. But I also thought the pressure from the crystal tool used when removing the crystal, might damage the bezel if not removed (especially on plastic F1s).

Plus, since I don't know what's underneath the bezel, not sure if it matters where you position the tool's edge to start the lift. I've heard stories of breaking the mechanism underneath on certain bezels.

Thehighwayman · Oct 23, 2025

Mspeedster
Thanks!

I haven't had the need to change either crystal or bezel on any of my F1s. The thought of removing a plastic bezel on a plastic case is a little scary. But I also thought the pressure from the crystal tool used when removing the crystal, might damage the bezel if not removed (especially on plastic F1s).

Plus, since I don't know what's underneath the bezel, not sure if it matters where you position the tool's edge to start the lift. I've heard stories of breaking the mechanism underneath on certain bezels.

Being honest I haven't done a crystal on a plastic F1, at least I can't remember if I have.
They have a steel core, the plastic was overmoulded so they are stronger than they look.
It would need care though. I would be looking to find a die for the underside that rested wholly on the internal steel core. You wouldn't want to be putting any pressure on the plastic at all.
I would also be looking at a less tight fit for the gasket, 24mm ID instead of 23.9mm for an easier fit with less pressure required.

There is no interference between bezel and crystal. I rarely bother using the press to push out the old one to be honest. I just have a bunch of round wooden dowels of various diameters. I find one that is roughly the same size as the glass,insert that from the back and give it a sharp tap with mallet. Much quicker than finding dies and setting the press up. Sometimes you can even push them out with your thumbs.

What I'd do with the bezel on a plastic cased one is put the watch in a plastic zip loc bag. Then insert a thin blade and lift. That way you won't mark the case.
The plastic click spring underneath is a bit vulnerable on these.
The click points are at 12,3,6 and 9. Don't start the lift in those areas.