Restoring a 371.513 Full Lume Formula One +part numbers/specs

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

RockBurner
A friend of mine had one of them, brand new UK model MX5 v1 , when they had only been around for a year or so , and when we looked under the bonnet, the gaping hole where the turbo "should" have been sitting was pretty obvious! 😁 IIRC they were designed specifically to allow for a turbo, but it wasn't added to the early cars (or something like that)

My missus has a unreasonable attraction to the last gen variant.... in it's Fiat 124 Abarth guise! 😁

(unreasonable in that she still hasn't passed her test...)

Never knew that, there is certainly plenty of room though.
I've read a few books about the early ones, how they actually had a Lotus Elan in the design studio and they were taking styling cues and measurements from it. Also trying to replicate the driving experience of a 60's sports car.

Your missus has good taste but the lack of a licence is a bit of a drawback! 🤣

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
Too much in common! 🤣
I didnt know they did a turbo!
Great cars, loads of fun to drive.
Mine is a MK1,imported from Japan around 2004.
British racing green with tan leather and hood and the beautiful wooden Nardi wheel. It's my summer toy 👍

I remember that spec! The BRG color, tan leather and Nardi steering wheel (& shift knob?) was something special, I really admired that version.

The Mazdaspeed version was the only Miata MX-5 to ever have a factory turbo, known as the Roadster Turbo in Japan. It was only available in the US for the 2004 & 2005 model years. This was mine, I added aftermarket wheels, but the rest was factory stock.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
I remember that spec! The BRG color, tan leather and Nardi steering wheel (& shift knob?) was something special, I really admired that version.

The Mazdaspeed version was the only Miata MX-5 to ever have a factory turbo, known as the Roadster Turbo in Japan. It was only available in the US for the 2004 & 2005 model years. This was mine, I added aftermarket wheels, but the rest was factory stock.

Yep,it was the V-Special, really nice spec .
You're right, Nardi shift knob too, but those are nearly always missing. I reckon they got pulled by dock workers when they were imported 🤣
I spent an age finding one.

Mines completely stock right down to the "daisy wheels"
I've been tempted to put Watanabe rims on it a few times but there aren't many left stock now.

When I first got it I was giving it a good valet and under the seat was a car park pass for Suzuka, pretty cool!

We never got a turbo here to my knowledge. The UK spec cars were not as nice or well specced as the JDM versions.

Yours looked great, must have been a real hoot with the turbo!

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
@Mspeedster
This is the sort of thing Michael.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006270654190.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.2562257ayCJtcP&browser_id=f9baa17001d74cd9871f9a7836671713&aff_trace_key=be3f1b211d3240e5835eda84144392f7-1754324905319-01756-eEy3FqJ&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=dzohrxqcecauuqec199bff4e9cc108a0ee2d1174fc&gclid=&pdp_ext_f={"order":"77","eval":"1","fromPage":"search"}&pdp_npi=6@dis!GBP!18.42!14.22!!!172.02!132.80!@2103963717598621229358096e3978!12000036547487743!sea!UK!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag:-29910;d:8e522514;m03_new_user:-29895;pisId:5000000178034629&algo_pvid=18e41bca-28ac-4a83-a789-36c00a2759ad

Turn the machine on.
Turn the second switch to D.
Place the movement with good battery on the pad marked detector. If the movement has a good coil and circuit the machine will beep every second and the red light will flash.
If there is no response, either the circuit/coil is bad or the movement has an electrical connection issue.

If the machine beeps and the light flashs but the movement is not running then a mechanical issue is the culprit.

To use line free on a gummy movement, switch to the M setting. Then place the movement on the Mechanic pad. You usually have to move it around a bit to find the best spot that spins up the hands. The third S/F switch is fast/slow and controls the speed the hands spin up.

Back to the topic of working on these Formula 1 watches. I ended up getting one of these cheap Quartz Test machines from Amazon.

I noticed that the pulse beeps every second on most of my watches. However, on one watch the pulse was slow, like maybe every two seconds. Does this mean the circuit is going bad or just a weak battery?

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
Back to the topic of working on these Formula 1 watches. I ended up getting one of these cheap Quartz Test machines from Amazon.

I noticed that the pulse beeps every second on most of my watches. However, on one watch the pulse was slow, like maybe every two seconds. Does this mean the circuit is going bad or just a weak battery?

They are really useful 👍

Is it a watch with no second hand, a two hander ?
Some of those only pulse every few seconds, even up to 30 seconds.

If it has a second hand then I'd say low battery.

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
They are really useful 👍

Is it a watch with no second hand, a two hander ?
Some of those only pulse every few seconds, even up to 30 seconds.

If it has a second hand then I'd say low battery.

It's a Formula 1, with second hand. It's still running, but I guess the battery could be getting weak. The battery tester on these things don't really seem to work well for 1.5v batteries.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
It's a Formula 1, with second hand. It's still running, but I guess the battery could be getting weak. The battery tester on these things don't really seem to work well for 1.5v batteries.

The did the scale wrong on them. Use the upper scale for 1.5v and ignore the 3v markings, a new battery shows about 1.35 volts on it.
As a pulse tester and line free tool they are brilliant though.

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
The did the scale wrong on them. Use the upper scale for 1.5v and ignore the 3v markings, a new battery shows about 1.35 volts on it.
As a pulse tester and line free tool they are brilliant though.

I'm just not sure about the accuracy, compared to another battery tester that I've used for years. My other battery tester shows it as barely in the green. So, it's kind of boarder-line.

Only one way to find out about the slow pulse, I'll order a new battery and see if the pulse changes.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
I'm just not sure about the accuracy, compared to another battery tester that I've used for years. My other battery tester shows it as barely in the green. So, it's kind of boarder-line.

Only one way to find out about the slow pulse, I'll order a new battery and see if the pulse changes.

The battery meter may not be terribly accurate. I don't use it much unless I've put the new battery down next to the old one and forgotten which was which! I tend to use a multi meter if I want an accurate voltage output.

Is the watch keeping time?

I can only think its down to voltage drop from the battery. It must be running slightly slow but not obviously so .

Obvious question, but it's not doing the 2x second jump with the end of life battery indicator is it?

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
The battery meter may not be terribly accurate. I don't use it much unless I've put the new battery down next to the old one and forgotten which was which! I tend to use a multi meter if I want an accurate voltage output.

Is the watch keeping time?

I can only think its down to voltage drop from the battery. It must be running slightly slow but not obviously so .

Obvious question, but it's not doing the 2x second jump with the end of life battery indicator is it?

It's an ETA 955.414. I'm not sure, but didn't think those jumped when the battery is low. Anyway, it's not doing the hand jump and has been keeping time.

I have another F1 with the same 955.414 movement and its pulse beats every second on the tester.

What else might this mean? Could grime buildup on the gears be slowing the pulse? Or coil/circuit going bad? 🤔

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
It's an ETA 955.414. I'm not sure, but didn't think those jumped when the battery is low. Anyway, it's not doing the hand jump and has been keeping time.

I have another F1 with the same 955.414 movement and its pulse beats every second on the tester.

What else might this mean? Could grime buildup on the gears be slowing the pulse? Or coil/circuit going bad? 🤔

I'm pretty sure they do, I think some do 2 seconds and some variants do 4 second jumps. I'd have to dig out the tech sheets to be sure.

If its not doing that it's a moot point anyway.

I can't see it being grime, its picking up the electrical signal. If its pulsing slow it should be running slow so its odd, not something I have come across before.
Makes me think it's not picking up the signal properly for some reason.

If the movement has an adjustable trimmer that can affect it but it would be marginal. Those only adjust in the area of 5 to 10 seconds a day, nowhere close to the apparent error.

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

It's a head scratcher. I watched it for 3 minutes on the tester and it consistently beeps every 2 seconds, while the second hand is moving every second as it should.

I just tried my old 965.313 movement on the tester (the one I just replaced in my yellow/grey). It beats every second as well, but the hand doesn't move.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
It's a head scratcher. I watched it for 3 minutes on the tester and it consistently beeps every 2 seconds, while the second hand is moving every second as it should.

I just tried my old 965.313 movement on the tester (the one I just replaced in my yellow/grey). It beats every second as well, but the hand doesn't move.

Sorry, got a bit sidetracked on a call!

It's got to be a problem with it not picking up the signal correctly. It's impossible for it to actually be pulsing every two seconds and have the second hand move every second, it can only move when there is a pulse.
Why it's doing that I don't know, it's very odd.

The old movement obviously has a good circuit but a mechanical issue.
That's why these things are good for diagnosis.
Try running the line free on it, it may well start running.
It may be dirty but I doubt it if Justin serviced it. I think it probably has a worn train as we discussed before. What's the jewel count on that one? Some were only single jewel I think and if there is a bit of wear in the pivots it will stop/start etc.

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Thehighwayman
Sorry, got a bit sidetracked on a call!

It's got to be a problem with it not picking up the signal correctly. It's impossible for it to actually be pulsing every two seconds and have the second hand move every second, it can only move when there is a pulse.
Why it's doing that I don't know, it's very odd.

The old movement obviously has a good circuit but a mechanical issue.
That's why these things are good for diagnosis.
Try running the line free on it, it may well start running.
It may be dirty but I doubt it if Justin serviced it. I think it probably has a worn train as we discussed before. What's the jewel count on that one? Some were only single jewel I think and if there is a bit of wear in the pivots it will stop/start etc.

No worries.

The watch seems fine, so I’m not really worried about it. Just more curious how the tester works and what the 2 sec pulse might mean. It’s the only watch I’ve tried that gives a 2 second pulse beat. Even tried a 2 hander, no second hand, Timex and it pulses every second. The Timex is on a NATO strap and the tester had no problem picking up the electronics. So, no reason the tester shouldn’t be able read the pulse right on this particular F1. Weird. 🤷‍♂️

Regarding my old 965.313, it is 1 jewel as you stated. I’m keeping it as spare parts. Maybe one day I’ll try doing my own overhaul service on it for practice.

Mspeedster · Oct 20, 2025

Also, the tester doesn't seem to work with quartz chronographs or LCD digital watches. I've tried a couple and get no pulse, but the watches are working fine.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
No worries.

The watch seems fine, so I’m not really worried about it. Just more curious how the tester works and what the 2 sec pulse might mean. It’s the only watch I’ve tried that gives a 2 second pulse beat. Even tried a 2 hander, no second hand, Timex and it pulses every second. The Timex is on a NATO strap and the tester had no problem picking up the electronics. So, no reason the tester shouldn’t be able read the pulse right on this particular F1. Weird. 🤷‍♂️

Regarding my old 965.313, it is 1 jewel as you stated. I’m keeping it as spare parts. Maybe one day I’ll try doing my own overhaul service on it for practice.

No,I wouldn't be concerned about it.
It must be actually pulsing every second in reality, the second hand can only move when there is a pulse.
So for some strange reason the tester is only picking up half the pulses.
The machine is basically an electro magnetic sensor. In essence, when the coil is energised it creates a magnetic field in the stator and that is what the sensor picks up. It's not connected to the mechanical elements so dirt,friction etc would have no bearing.

I can't imagine a scenario where every other pulse would be too weak to register,same coil,same circuit,same outcome !

It's a strange one !

Yeah,some two handers pulse every second,others don't especially ladies watches.
They can be 30 seconds between pulses.If you watch them closely they basically look dead and then eventually you'll see the minute hand make a little jump.

Thehighwayman · Oct 20, 2025

Mspeedster
Also, the tester doesn't seem to work with quartz chronographs or LCD digital watches. I've tried a couple and get no pulse, but the watches are working fine.

They won't work on any LCD as they operate in a totally different way, no electromagnetic field created,nothing for the sensor to pick up.

They work on some quartz chronos but not others. Mine works on my 283.306 but not on a CK1110. I believe that's because the 283.306 has a single coil. The CK1110 has an ETA with multiple stepping motors and hence multiple coils and stators which seems to confuse the sensor.

Thehighwayman · Oct 23, 2025

Since this has become a bit of a general Formula 1 watchmaking thread I thought I'd document an F1 crystal change. It's a bit boring so kind of skipped the details previously!

So, this is my press :

It's a Horotec clone, very stable and solid.
If you are fitting crystals you are much better with something like this than a cheap lever type. They tend to flex in the handle under pressure, thus much reducing the amount of actual useful pressing going on!

You need to fit two nylon dies to the press, one to support the case and the second to push on the crystal.
It's important to select a die which snugly holds the case. Even more important is the die for the crystal. This needs to be be as close as possible to the crystal diameter so it pushs on the outer edge of the glass.

For a full size all steel Formula One a 38mm die underneath and a 24mm on top is ideal.A plastic cased version would need a smaller die on the underside to ensure the pressure is only exerted on the steel core not on the plastic.

Then put the crystal in place loosely with your fingers, make sure that it is sat level and put the case into the press.

Wind the piston down until it makes contact with the crystal. These presses have a coarse thread to get down to the workpiece quickly. They then switch to a fine thread for the actual pressing.

Turn the handle slowly and apply pressure making sure the crystal is still flat and receiving equal pressure all round. If it moves a little off centre, back off and re centre.
If all is well, keep applying gentle pressure and you'll hear a click as it seats.

Job done 👍

Mspeedster · Oct 23, 2025

Thanks for the added information on the crystal swap.

I've changed the crystal before on a Seiko, but it didn't have a bezel. Could you please also share your tools and tips for bezel replacement? That's something I've yet to do on any watch. And I believe the bezel removal is required before changing the crystal.

Thehighwayman · Oct 23, 2025

Mspeedster
Thanks for the added information on the crystal swap.

I've changed the crystal before on a Seiko, but it didn't have a bezel. Could you please also share your tools and tips for bezel replacement? That's something I've yet to do on any watch. And I believe the bezel removal is required before changing the crystal.

Depends on the watch. Perfectly possible to do an F1 crystal with the bezel still on but since they are very easy to remove I take them off.
The Moondust I left the bezel in place for crystal fitting because they are notoriously hard to remove. Since it's turning smoothly with no grittiness I take the view if its not broken don't fix it!

Often a slim case knife and some care is all you need to remove a bezel. Get one side lifted and work around from there. I'd only use the case knife method on a F1 bezel, they are easy to remove and too fragile for heavy duty tools.

Tool wise, there are various types of bezel removers. All are pretty effective.
There is the plier type like this.

Or the Horotec style like this.

Screenshot_20251023_181618_com.android.chrome.webp

Works on the principle of getting under the bezel and applying equal lifting pressure to pop them off.

My preference is for the Horotec type, they aren't vastly expensive.