TAG Heuer 3000 quartz ref. 232.206...

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Hello everyone. I apologize in advance for my English.
I need to change the caliber of my Tag Heuer ref. 232.206 as it doesn't work. I only need to change the ETA caliber (the chronograph caliber works). I read here on the forum that the equivalent of the ESA caliber 555.232 is the ETA 955.232. Searching on ebay I found this listing: https://www.ebay.it/itm/NOS-ETA-Mov...ografo-Modulo-Quarzo-Cal-955-232/184093673188
But I have a doubt: the data disc seems too small, right?
 
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Hello everyone. I apologize in advance for my English.
I need to change the caliber of my Tag Heuer ref. 232.206 as it doesn't work.

Hey @Milwaukee, did you ever get this figured out? I just tracked down one of these that needs a service as well but it seems they are extremely difficult to find parts for.
 
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Hey @Milwaukee, did you ever get this figured out? I just tracked down one of these that needs a service as well but it seems they are extremely difficult to find parts for.
OP hasn't been seen in 3+ years, safe to say you won't get any answer from him
 
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The amount of info on these is so sparse I had to shoot my shot!
 
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Hey @Milwaukee, did you ever get this figured out? I just tracked down one of these that needs a service as well but it seems they are extremely difficult to find parts for.
May I ask what is broken?
 
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May I ask what is broken?
I have 2x 2000 and 2x 3000 with this movement. 1 of them is malfunctioning. Chrono button does not function. I'm going to my watchmaker soon. He has experience with these timepieces. To my knowledge, there may be parts can still be found. I will keep you informed.
 
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May I ask what is broken?

My time doesn’t set reliably. It feels like the teeth aren’t catching all the way when turning the crown. Once I do get the time set it loses time immediately.

The seconds subdial, chrono, date wheel all appear to be working however. I’m hoping it’s a relatively easy fix as I hear it’s nearly impossible to find parts like the circuit as they were specific to this watch.

I’ve heard a good solution is to source a functioning 2000 or 3000 chrono (both use the dd2000 movement) as a donor watch. I’ve just sent mine to a watchmaker yesterday, will update what I hear from him.

I considered returning to the seller (who claimed the watch was “100%” functioning) but I’ve been chasing “the die hard watch” for a while and these don’t come up often!
Edited:
 
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My time doesn’t set reliably. It feels like the teeth aren’t catching all the way when turning the crown. Once I do get the time set it loses time immediately.

The seconds subdial, chrono, date wheel all appear to be working however. I’m hoping it’s a relatively easy fix as I hear it’s nearly impossible to find parts like the circuit as they were specific to this watch.

I’ve heard a good solution is to source a functioning 2000 or 3000 chrono (both use the dd2000 movement) as a donor watch. I’ve just sent mine to a watchmaker yesterday, will update what I hear from him.

I considered returning to the seller (who claimed the watch was “100%” functioning) but I’ve been chasing “the die hard watch” for a while and these don’t come up often!
That sounds serious. Donor may be an option. Fortunately, I have a potential candidate available. Good luck and I'd love to hear the outcome.
 
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Any results on servicing these @mattp ? And perhaps someone with (theoritical) experience to do a conversion? As suggested by @Thehighwayman in his wonderful post about the 283.306. Will changing just 2 parts be sufficient?

I have a couple of 2000's with these movements and most importantly, some 3000 chronographs, piling up as I haven't found a solution to fix or convert them. I would love to fix them and find new owners that will enjoy them
 
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Any results on servicing these @mattp ? And perhaps someone with (theoritical) experience to do a conversion? As suggested by @Thehighwayman in his wonderful post about the 283.306. Will changing just 2 parts be sufficient?

I have a couple of 2000's with these movements and most importantly, some 3000 chronographs, piling up as I haven't found a solution to fix or convert them. I would love to fix them and find new owners that will enjoy them
This was on my mind again last night when i spotted a cal 185 for sale on Ebay. The listing said "we've changed the circuit but the watch is running very slow". So the guy had put a regular circuit on a cal 185 got the watch running but of course it's now running 12 hours a day out!
He's got it ticking once a second but it's moving in half second increments basically.

What's needed is a match between the circuit and the stepping motor components so a one second pulse is matched by a one second jump.
The stepping motor just consists of the rotor and the stator both of which can be taken from a standard donor movement of the same architecture.
What I'm not sure of is whether both the rotor and stator need to be swapped or if just the rotor will do the trick.

The actual gear train with the extra teeth to allow half second increments shouldn't matter. It's basically free moving, it will turn as much as its made to turn by the stepping motor and just skip a tooth.

It's just a theory but logic says it should work!
 
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This is why I sold my gold one that needed servicing... shame , it was a funky looking thing.
 
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That was the opposite though, the time worked fine but the chronograph would stutter and stop and also slow the main hands down when it was in operation. Sounded like a pain in the bum to fix and probably expensive so I bailed.
 
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@rudiculous
Bit more on this theory.
Below is an ETA tech document detailing the differences between the cal 183 and 185.
This shows the changes made to "convert" the standard one second tick 555.112 into the twice per second 555.232. It specifically says a new "half second impulse motor".

This says to me they didnt use the regular one second motor and gear it down through the train but used a stepping motor moving in half second increments. Therefore changing over the stepping motor components (coil/circuit, rotor and stator) to those from a 555.112 or equivalent should effectively return a cal 185 movement to an operational cal 183 with once per second tick.
It looks like they didn't change all the wheel teeth, those that were changed were for reasons of reducing backlash not for gearing.

I reckon it would work.
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That was the opposite though, the time worked fine but the chronograph would stutter and stop and also slow the main hands down when it was in operation. Sounded like a pain in the bum to fix and probably expensive so I bailed.
Yeah, thats a different problem with the Dubois Depraz module. They can be serviced but are a bit of bear.
Yours was quite unusual, more common to see them run with the chrono engaged and stop when its not. Something to do with there being more drag when the chrono is stopped than engaged. Counterintuitive but true!
 
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My 273.406 only runs when the chrono is activated. I will give it to my watchmaker soon. I bought the watch nos. I also suspected that it might just be a drop of oil. 🙏 Furthermore, he runs like a charm. My 232.206 has no problems. It has recently been fitted with a NOS case and bezel. Both my 2000 chronos also run well. I will ask my watchmaker if he has experience with this caliber.
 
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Yeah, thats a different problem with the Dubois Depraz module. They can be serviced but are a bit of bear.
Yours was quite unusual, more common to see them run with the chrono engaged and stop when its not. Something to do with there being more drag when the chrono is stopped than engaged. Counterintuitive but true!
Sounds way over my head to be honest! I just like pretty watches! 😎
 
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This indeed. Plus, my fingers are too fat. Otherwise I would have dived in😅
 
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My 273.406 only runs when the chrono is activated. I will give it to my watchmaker soon. I bought the watch nos. I also suspected that it might just be a drop of oil. 🙏 Furthermore, he runs like a charm. My 232.206 has no problems. It has recently been fitted with a NOS case and bezel. Both my 2000 chronos also run well. I will ask my watchmaker if he has experience with this caliber.
Yes, as I said to @Aquagraph that is the more common scenario. I believe its due to clutch friction when the chrono is stopped.
There are guy's who service the modules.
They are very fussy when it comes to correct lubrication as well.