1930's UG catalog from Sala

bgrisso · Apr 20, 2020

I've never fully studied or appreciated the watches in the late 30's catalog that is reproduced at the back of the Sala book. I'm not including the full catalog here, as I don't want to undercut anyone getting the book, but man, look at some of these !!!

bgrisso · Apr 20, 2020

I am curious for someone fluent in French, the statement along the bottom of each page, does it mean that all the watches here are made of either gold or steel, or that any individual watch can be ordered in gold or steel ? For example I wonder if the HJ cases such as 610 or 629 could be ordered in steel, as I've only ever seen them in gold?

On the first page it says the waterproof model is only available in steel, do people think that is only referring to the central watch 613 ?

Anyhow these case styles combined with these dials are out of this world. I don't think I've seen real life examples of most of them. And this is only part of the cal 285 section of the catalog, doesn't even include the 287s ! (or 283 and 281)

OllieOnTheRocks · Apr 20, 2020

wow those are beautiful! - Would love to see real life examples 😀

Duracuir1 · Apr 20, 2020

bgrisso
I am curious for someone fluent in French, the statement along the bottom of each page, does it mean that all the watches here are made of either gold or steel, or that any individual watch can be ordered in gold or steel ? For example I wonder if the HJ cases such as 610 or 629 could be ordered in steel, as I've only ever seen them on gold?

On the first page it says the waterproof model is only available in steel, do people think that is only referring to the central watch 613 ?

Anyhow these case styles combined with these dials are out of this world. I don't think I've seen real life examples of most of them. And this is only part of the cal 285 section of the catalog, doesn't even include the 287s ! (or 283 and 281)

Ben, You are correct about all models being available in gold or steel (based on what is written at the bottom of each page, it reads that all models are made in gold AND steel, but being French I see that as simply being offered in either gold or steel). The weather resistance offered only in steel is a bit unclear, but does at least show that the watch will be only steel. Not sure if they only refer to the model beneath the writing. We’ll never know! Unless someone is willing to put their watch to the test.

Woops · Apr 21, 2020

bgrisso
I am curious for someone fluent in French, the statement along the bottom of each page, does it mean that all the watches here are made of either gold or steel, or that any individual watch can be ordered in gold or steel ? For example I wonder if the HJ cases such as 610 or 629 could be ordered in steel, as I've only ever seen them in gold?

It is puzzling. The beautiful hard facets of this style case, the lugs especially, would be so well suited to casting in hard-wearing steel. And yet we only ever seem to see these cases in yellow gold. A friend says hi!

Duracuir1
Ben, You are correct about all models being available in gold or steel (based on what is written at the bottom of each page, it reads that all models are made in gold AND steel, but being French I see that as simply being offered in either gold or steel).

If this is meant literally, and I am understanding your translation properly, I wonder then why we haven't seen a 40s Jeanneret case in steel (so far) from UG, Zenith etc? Maybe the manufacturer simply offered this style in one metal only? Maybe these special cases were designed purely to make a little gold go further during the war and have the watch still look impressive on the wrist? Maybe this conjecture is pointless and someone reading actually has one in steel? If so, please post it!

bgrisso · Apr 21, 2020

Woops
It is puzzling. The beautiful hard facets of this style case, the lugs especially, would be so well suited to casting in hard-wearing steel. And yet we only ever seem to see these cases in yellow gold. A friend says hi!

If this is meant literally, and I am understanding your translation properly, I wonder then why we haven't seen a 40s Jeanneret case in steel (so far) from UG, Zenith etc? Maybe the manufacturer simply offered this style in one metal only? Maybe these special cases were designed purely to make a little gold go further during the war and have the watch still look impressive on the wrist? Maybe this conjecture is pointless and someone reading actually has one in steel? If so, please post it!

I tend to think if they existed in steel we would have seen one by now, on the other hand, anything is possible

jsducote · Apr 21, 2020

bgrisso
On the first page it says the waterproof model is only available in steel, do people think that is only referring to the central watch 613 ?

FWIW, I read it as only referring to that watch. If it was intended for all models on the page, I think the text would have been justified across the entire page as the gold/steel text is and likely would have read 'tous ces modeles' instead of the singular 'modele'

bgrisso · Apr 21, 2020

jsducote
FWIW, I read it as only referring to that watch. If it was intended for all models on the page, I think the text would have been justified across the entire page as the gold/steel text is and likely would have read 'tous ces modeles' instead of the singular 'modele'

I tend to agree, that's how I read it as well.

chicagowatch · Apr 21, 2020

Unbelievable how close these look to some of the most revered chronograph dials to come of the era. The Omega/Tissot/Lemania 33.3, scientific dials made by Movado, Longines, et al., maisons like Tavannes enjoying handsome profits - and of course, who could forget sister company Patek Philippe's legendary 96 + 130 references, amongst others. Surely, I'm forgetting many, many important brands in this short love letter, too.

It's one of my favorite sections of Sala to flip through. Sharp lessons in typography, negative space, dial balance, etc. Just a feast for the eyes.

One could wax poetic endlessly...

bgrisso · Apr 21, 2020

Look at that last one 629 ! Is that a partially hooded art deco HJ case with sector dial ?! Insanely good.

chicagowatch · Apr 21, 2020

bgrisso
Look at that last one 629 ! Is that a partially hooded art deco HJ case with sector dial ?! Insanely good.

Wow... 😲 I don't think I'd ever noticed it. The whole thing is just insanity. Would love to see a pristine example of the 621, 627, or 629. A sharp Jeanneret case is unbeatable.

Vitezi · Apr 21, 2020

Hello, Mr. Henri Stern? Yes, I'd like to order these two from your catalog, please! 🥰

NikoMartinez_SYD · Apr 22, 2020

I am so close to buying a UG, posts like this certainly dont help! ahh i love them, some of the nicest vintage chronos out there, i know once i cave on the first one it will be a slippery slope. These old catalogues are amazing too.

JimInOz · Apr 22, 2020

Vitezi
Hello, Mr. Henri Stern? Yes, I'd like to order these two from your catalog, please! 🥰

Better order a couple of each, you may even be able to tempt @Syrte to the dark side with those Art Deco beauties.

10H10 · Apr 22, 2020

For those who appreciate art deco 👍, a 1938 Compur:

Carlton-Browne · Apr 22, 2020

Those lugs 😎.

wbfondren · Apr 22, 2020

It seems that 1930s UGs of these configurations are hard to come by. Does anyone have any idea on production numbers for UG through this period?

Syrte · Apr 22, 2020

JimInOz
Better order a couple of each, you may even be able to tempt @Syrte to the dark side with those Art Deco beauties.

seriously 👍
Thanks for the ping ! Those are so beautiful. @10H10 your example is so beautiful too 😜

And yes there's ambiguity in both phrases.
The phrase which says literally "all the models are made in gold and steel" does leave room for several interpretations.
It essentially means they "are available in gold and steel" but nothing indicates if that refers to special orders or not.

bgrisso · Apr 23, 2020

This ad shows a compax available in both gold and SS, with both references listed. In Sala we have archive pics of both references, and it appears to be the exact same case style in both types of metals.

bgrisso · Apr 23, 2020

This advert shows a HJ case Aero compax (!!!) available in both SS and gold, with references listed for both. In Sala we do not have archives pictures for either reference. One could assume the HJ example shown in the advert is gold, and the SS reference is simply a completely different case style. However if we refer to the previous advert pattern, the case styles are exactly matching in both gold and SS....