What's the fascination with Gay Freres bracelets?

YYTIN
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Hi there

Not much to add : long history related to watches, capable of fine jewelry, invented a lot of « standards » , collaborate with the most respected brands …

here are a few articles to read (sorry the first is in French) :
https://www.lesrhabilleurs.com/2017/08/gay-freres-bracelet-montres-histoire/#optin-modal
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/gay-freres-much-more-than-a-simple-manufacturer-of-watch-bracelets
https://bulangandsons.eu/blogs/watch-talks/gay-freres-the-bracelet-brothers
https://www.fratellowatches.com/gay-freres-the-most-impactful-parts-supplier-of-all/#gref

All in all a brand that deserve respect. After how much are you and am I ready to spend for it is another story…the same as for most watches.

and to add a picture here is my eterna bracelet :
image.jpg image.jpg
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iChristos
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Hello,

Already a lot has been said, I bought last year a Zenith A277 without the famous GF Bracelet, I was looking for one and had the chance also to wear an A3736 with a ladder one, the confort was incredible and I really looked a lot to buy one.

Off course, price are crazy, 2k, 3k, 3,5k and then you said ok, let's go for a forstner...

Best regards,
Christos
 
Davidt
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I feel GF bracelets are generally of a superior quality to other contemporary makers. Yes the names adds kudos and the fact they’re OEM for many expensive watches so there’s the ‘rising tide lifts all boats’ but stripping all that back, they’re exceptionally well made and light. My GF double grain for my Heuer Camaro is ridiculously tight and feels new even though it’s 50 years old.

Any half arsed manufacturer can make a bracelet that feels quality when they’re using solid links and clasps. The genius of vintage bracelets is the fact they were of a high quality, robust and light. Something modern stainless steel bracelets can only dream of.
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Jkuback
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Much said already but I'd like to add my two cents:

IMHO
  • First of all are vintage bracelets much more comfy than most new ones
  • GF has outstanding build quality

Then:
me as a watch nerd looking for authentic pieces I want to have the period correct bracelet (=pay a premium)

But most important: where are the pics of your bespoke pieces 😁

Here is one of mine:
1000031200.jpg
 
Scarecrow Boat
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To date, this is one of my favorite bracelets I have ever owned. I loved the design, it was made well, and wore comfortably.

IMG_2543.jpeg IMG_2544.jpeg IMG_2545.jpeg
 
C
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Starstella Starstella
After 30+ years collecting I'm really only now getting deeper into the vintage world of watches. I've recently added a couple Vintage Genta cased pieces in my box. Both came complete with great examples of the original Freres bracelets with Zenith branding.

Can anyone tell me if there is something more to the fascination with these than the fact that they are original from 50+ years ago? I see ridiculous asking prices for them and or watches with them command so much more money than those without. It's also worth noting it's not just exclusive to Zenith. Other brands who used the Freres bracelets seem to have similar attributes in value.
Gay Freres bracelets are made to more exacting standards than other bracelets. They are made intentionally thinner and then to drape rather hang on the owners wrist so they look better and more expensive. Also, If you have worn a GF vs. the standard beads of rice on a Heuer, you would notice an immediate difference.
 
Bigdaddy814
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Starstella Starstella
Right, that echos my statement, but my question; is there something more about the GF bracelets specifically? There seems to be something weighted to the GF bracelets when compared to original bracelets of the same ere not specifically GF made. A friend of mine, also having a couple pieces with GF bracelets, and I were just chatting about it and in truth, neither of us understood the perceived value. (above and beyond an industry based on perceived values 😀 ).
I just bought a vintage zenith sub-sea and it came on its original gay freres bracelet. That adds to the watch's value and the bracelet has an independent value of its own in the neighborhood of $1000. I guess the value is just because it is a legendary maker now owned by Rolex. I do not even like the bracelet and there is no way to resize it without destroying the removed links (you apparently have to literally bend them open with a screwdriver, which renders the metal too soft to reuse.) so I removed it and put on a tropic strap and am very happy. I am keeping the GF bracelet for if or when I ever decide to sell the watch as it will make for a more valuable package.
 
WoundupLA
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iChristos iChristos
Hello,

Already a lot has been said, I bought last year a Zenith A277 without the famous GF Bracelet, I was looking for one and had the chance also to wear an A3736 with a ladder one, the confort was incredible and I really looked a lot to buy one.

Off course, price are crazy, 2k, 3k, 3,5k and then you said ok, let's go for a forstner...

Best regards,
Christo
 
WoundupLA
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I have several Zenith watches and GF ladder bracelets. I am just digging into the details of them as well. I find them very comfortable, durable (none have broken on me yet!) and distinctive. Compare them to vintage Seiko bracelets that are flimsy and sharp edges that scratch, catch and pinch the hair on my arm…
I have matched the end links (lots of resources on line for that), but with a Zenith A277 I recently acquired I am looking for a tapered GF ladder, vs the 18mm straight bracelet - am I saying that correctly? Any help would be appreciated.
 
hejsam
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Whats the value of an old (guessing 50s?) Gay Freres rivet stretch oyster bracelet? Tight springs and good width and tapering with 18mm straight ends, slightly under 15cm unstretched.
att.nKkS2OIuQL3DkumcKUXg-wxOaRCZmx1SfMZIBayxMIA.webp att.tVqh86zGUeRS4Jr-mrwYSrvNP-NxnnFeVLE7aOnBrYE.webp att.yqRhx-Do0CCc3zQfFmYvPB4Kge6aERYEIyYlyFaWMjA.webp att.FkJgzdCJpZn_UEqTsZrSXsv6OpZDanVZbIaBbXYG0iY.webp att.9jVcY1jvBFRerGhI72L7c-Hr9QxuXncFV4v53lGtOcM.webp
 
Redondo444
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not sure if this is complete.

Looks like at first sight at least one link (size) is missing.

e.g. tapering down 5 times on one side and only 3 times on the other.
 
hejsam
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Redondo444 Redondo444
not sure if this is complete.

Looks like at first sight at least one link (size) is missing.

e.g. tapering down 5 times on one side and only 3 times on the other.
Correct it looks like one tapering link might be missing on one side, do you know an estimated value?
I have some spare additional "small" links to make it longer though
 
Dan S
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Unbranded GF bracelets in good condition are generally in the $50-$100 range, in my experience. Branded GF bracelets can be worth much more, typically correlating with the value of the watch that they were made for.
 
hejsam
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Dan S Dan S
Unbranded GF bracelets in good condition are generally in the $50-$100 range, in my experience. Branded GF bracelets can be worth much more, typically correlating with the value of the watch that they were made for.
Wow wish I could buy those for that money.
Dont think I have seen a 50s or earlier GF bracelet with 18mm+ widht for sale for less than 1000USD, are you saying they are 10x off the market value?
 
pdxleaf
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hejsam hejsam
Wow wish I could buy those for that money.
Dont think I have seen a 50s or earlier GF bracelet with 18mm+ widht for sale for less than 1000USD, are you saying they are 10x off the market value?
hejsam hejsam
Whats the value of an old (guessing 50s?) Gay Freres rivet stretch oyster bracelet?

Why are you asking how much they're worth if you already know?
 
hejsam
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pdxleaf pdxleaf
Why are you asking how much they're worth if you already know?
Because I think the 1000-5000USD which they are listed for is a big span and even on the lowest end it seems to much. So thats why I am asking if some actually know what they change hands for
 
Davidt
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I don’t think generic GF bracelets sell for 1000. I’d say between £100-250.
You can buy an 18mm GF eterna Kontiki bracelet for £200 with a bit of patience so I can’t see generics selling for anywhere near 5x that price.
 
Dan S
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I have purchased many unbranded GF bracelets in the ballpark of $100. I am thinking of a generic BoR or something like that. I think the one that you showed, with the stretch links, is particularly nice and would sell for slightly more, but nothing like $1k. Branded IWC GF bracelets don't even sell for that much. On the other end of the spectrum, a Rolex GF bracelet could potentially sell for several thousand, depending on the size and style.
 
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