Thoughts on this Audemars Piguet Huitieme 18k "dress" Chronograph

Been looking for a "birth decade/year" watch and came across this Audemars Piguet Huitieme 18k Chronograph from the 1980s.

It checks many of the boxes I wanted in a dressier sport watch, a higher-end watchmaker, 41mm 18k solid gold case, chronograph and date in a slim 11mm thick package, great AP Cal. 2126/2840 (same as the very first Royal Oak Offshore), retro classic case design and shape. This is very similar to the Vacheron Les Historiques chronograph that came out a few years later, but costs substantially lower in the secondary market.

There are some articles online regarding this watch, even featured as a watch in the Bernie Madoff collection and subsequent auction. However, I wonder what real OF peeps thoughts are about this watch. There's some criticism regarding the "Audemars Piguet" lettering on the bezel, but this watch can be had for less then 1/2 of comparable AP Royal Oaks. I know AP is known for the RO and ROO, but is this watch understated and maybe underappreciated?

Fits well on a 7in wrist and even looks good on a Patek Aquanaut rubber strap for the sporty luxury watch look. What do you guys think?

Yeah, the main criticism on this line of AP Huitieme watches is the engraved or printed name on the bezel. Interestingly, this version has the more rare black printing instead of engraving. Should I be so bold as to "rub off" this lettering sometime in the future...haha? I'm trying to imagine how it would look without it. Other than that, the case and dial configuration are pretty classic.

The dial is actually silver, but the photos make it look white, and the date wheel is an unusual gold. I agree another color would make this watch more sportier/versatile than just a dress chronograph (if there is such a thing). I just love the size 40mm, which interestingly was the bigger reason why this AP didn't sell so well in the 80's, but the Royal Oak thrived. Now this size is almost standard for non-sport watches.

Right now the Huitieme line is becoming interesting to collectors. As you know it is not an integrated chronograph movement, rather a modular arrangement which is why these were so much cheaper when they were new compared to a column wheel chronograph you'd find in a PP or a VC. Ref number for this watch is BA.25644.003 and my Feb. 1987 price lists shows it at $11,000 for the US, and 13,950 Swiss Francs for that market. These normally came with a double folding deployant buckle

The Audemars Piguet branding on the bezel is just the style for the 1980's, it is a time capsule of what AP was trying to do. It doesn't bother me either way, it just is what it is. The 40mm size was unusual for that era, it was considered a big watch which is one reason it wasn't a big hit in that era. If you can get it at a reasonable price it is a worthy watch. If it hasn't been serviced add that in to the purchase cost, figure about $1,000-$1,500 if the AP service center in Clearwater does the work which is who I would entrust to do the work.

Do not rub off the black enamel lettering, that is the way it came from the factory when they first came out.

Thanks for the great info! I know the JLC/Dubois Depraz integrated chronograph movement was used in the majority of the Royal Oaks Offshore. However, as you mentioned, not as expensive or elegant as the Vacheron Les Historiques straight "dress chronograph" that looks similar to this AP. Which I was also interested in, but at double the price! Luckily, I got this AP at a good price and it came with the 18k double folding deployment buckle.

Since I was born in the 1980's, it's kinda cool to have a snapshot of the styling of that era. Not quite "vintage", but retro enough to make this watch unique. The 40mm size makes this watch much more wearable nowadays. The pictures makes this watch look huge, but actually the size fits quite well for a dress watch. It's only 11mm thick . Haha, I was mostly joking about rubbing off the black lettering. I actually find myself not wanting to touch this part of the watch because it is printed instead of engraved like most of the other AP Huitiemes. But you stated it was enamel. Do you know durable is this lettering is? For 30 something years, the lettering still looks pristine with no flaking at all.

No idea how durable the lettering is, your bezel looks awfully good, maybe the watch was a safe queen. How is it running?

Back in the 1980's yellow gold was the standard, rose gold didn't come into fashion until a few years later. Now yellow gold is coming back.

Here is one of my AP's from the same era as yours (ca 1986)....skeleton perpetual calendar. AP makes some wonderful stuff but the non-Royal Oak pieces just don't get the appreciation they should.

Enjoy your watch!

OMG, that is beautiful. My jaw literally dropped at your AP skeleton perpetual. It seems like cases for AP during that era are very similar as well. Do you know if my AP is considered pink gold or yellow, I just can't be sure since the Huitieme looks a tad darker than true 18k yellow gold.

The condition of my AP is very good, except for some minor scratches, but unpolished. It's running okay, but don't know if it requires service just yet. It runs +30 secs daily while wearing on the wrist, but only +5 secs while resting crown up at overnight. I know it's not a chronometer rated watch, so this variance is somewhat acceptable. I just don't want to "wear it out" if it does require service/overhaul.

I agree, AP makes some beautiful non-Royal Oak pieces. However, I wonder if the 80s are a time in history that AP wanted to breeze over. Many AP books I have looked through fails to even mention the Huitieme line. Though, there is one example of the SS version of this chronograph in the AP Museum.

Your watch is definitely yellow gold, but 18k gold will eventually show a bit of oxidation, especially on the brushed surfaces. Since 25% of the composition of 18k yellow gold is made up of copper and silver that means it will oxidize over time, and 30+ years of exposure to air will make it oxidize. That can be cleaned up during a service.

+30 sec/day is way out of spec, it probably needs some attention. If you live in the US I would highly recommend the AP service center in FL, the best after sales service in the industry, imo.

Thank you! That clears things up a bit. I have been in contact with Clearwater. However, it was mainly to inquire about getting an Extract from Archives about this watch and then possibly send this watch in for a service request estimate. I understand the cost factor for service when purchasing a vintage/used watch, but I'm a little bit hesitant about the length of time it will take for service. From AP, I heard it could be months.

Awesome! You even got the one with the enamel "Audemars Piguet" on the bezel (like mine) instead of the engraved bezel that is more common. Thanks for sharing all the pics. Hopefully more people will see how Audemars Piguet is more than Royal Oaks and ROOs. This is a larger dress watch, but definitely a classic.