thoughts on a 1950s Uni-Compax

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I didn't comment until now as I wanted to see if more UG examples were to be found.

I've seen 2 "45's" before in a seconds at 9 chronograph subdial. One printing goes with the minutes track and the other is with the subdial for the stopwatch seconds.

Sounds stupid, but there is a good reason for this. When dials were originally manufactured, the dies for the subdials were a standard size and font. When the contractor produced the dials for UG, it was specified at 9. It could have been at 3 (if that's what UG wanted). In that case, you might have had two "15's".

I vote that dial is original.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa

No doubt these exist. The double stamps are also to be seen on many vintage chronographs that had the tachometer scales around the outside. Frequently these scales, when stamped, would overlap the subdials. There's just one problem: this didn't happen at the original production run at the factory. This happens when re-dialers attempt to make do with the closest die that they have. You describe a perfectly plausible scenario.

The trouble with some of these pieces is that Universal Geneve itself was a prolific re-dialer. Back in the 50s this wasn't a big deal. You simply went to your neighborhood jeweler and told him you wanted the watch serviced and to freshen up the dial. You could opt to buy a brand new dial, but this entailed quite a bit of hassle.

I have a definitive original service manual and parts inventory/catalog from Universal. I quote from page 2:
"Dials: When ordering a dial, the latter must not only be fully described in appearance but both numbers engraved on the case, serial and consecutive, must also be indicated together with the caliber number. May we, however, point out that renovating an old dial is much less costly and much faster than the supplying of a new one. Dials sent to us for replacing or renovating must be packed very carefully to avoid any damage by the dial pins whilst in transit."

So, I stick to my original conclusion. This is a redial. It was an older redial based on the radium burns and patina. It may have even been re-dialed at Universal using a mish mash of the original plates.

You can look up some videos on pad printing on the net to get an idea of how this works. Hodinkee did a nice segment at Patek's NYC service center where they stamped one of the dials with a Tiffany's signature. Given how many different dials that Universal produced, it stands to reason that they kept the original dies intact for the first production run and made a supply of spare dials (indeed, there are some VERY legitimate NOS dials that sometimes surface--I've had a conversation with a french collector who has quite a stash, along with the rest of the parts inventory and period literature to back it up. The consensus around here is that many of these supposed NOS dials are "over inked" and therefore suspicious... on some of these I disagree, but I digress.) Following this run, it's likely that the dies were then recycled/redesigned into another dial layout. When you understand how much labor and hand engraving goes into producing one of these original pad printing plates, you begin to get the idea. Remember this was before the era of laser cutters and CNC machines.
 
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I brought this up once before, but I've always felt that the definitive way to judge some of these dials was with a geiger counter or some other type of radiation detector.

It's well established that different formulations of radioactive compound were used in the luminous mixes at different times and in varying concentrations. I envision a similar process to radio-carbon dating archeological artifacts and dinosaur bones... but with the added benefit of a short half life for both radium and tritium.

Anyone want to lend me/buy me a detector?
 
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I know that it was very common practice to routinely refinish dials during regular servicing. However, most of the time this was done by independent companies. That would account for some of the over inked dials that we see that still have a lot of wear on them. Very few people took the time to send watches back to Switzerland for factory service at that time.

However, there are too many of the exact same style and fonts for me to believe that all were redials done by the same redialler, even if by UG or a contractor.

Moat of the Uni-Compax dials were not done with the 15-30-45 type subdial, but most of those that were have this "stutter".

Coincidence? I think not.
gatorcpa
 
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I know that it was very common practice to routinely refinish dials during regular servicing. However, most of the time this was done by independent companies. That would account for some of the over inked dials that we see that still have a lot of wear on them. Very few people took the time to send watches back to Switzerland for factory service at that time.

However, there are too many of the exact same style and fonts for me to believe that all were redials done by the same redialler, even if by UG or a contractor.

Moat of the Uni-Compax dials were not done with the 15-30-45 type subdial, but most of those that were have this "stutter".

Coincidence? I think not.
gatorcpa


Agreed.

We also know that some of the original Universal dies existed in NYC before the Quartz era. Back in their heyday, International Dial Co. was conveniently located at 198 Broadway, New York , NY.

Maybe they didn't have access to the whole inventory of dies and had to make due with what they had on hand...
 
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ID could have been an original contractor for H. Stern, who imported UG to the US at that time. They could have simply made the originals for UG. Many Swiss companies did have dials made here after importation of the movements.

I hadn't considered that possibility.
gatorcpa
 
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ID was right across the street from UG in NY. And yes, they still have many of the dies for UG dials. I've seen some pretty damn good work on UG moon phase calendar non-chronographs come from ID.
 
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Do you guys think, then, that the Uni-Compax I just made a thread about might not have a factory original dial? I want to note that, if there is a great suspicion.

Personally, I seem to find more examples with two "45"'s than without on the 15, 30, 45's.
 
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I think it is original. Others don't think so.

That may may be as good as it gets.
gatorcpa
 
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I've seen 2 "45's" before in a seconds at 9 chronograph subdial. One printing goes with the minutes track and the other is with the subdial for the stopwatch seconds.

Sounds stupid, but there is a good reason for this. When dials were originally manufactured, the dies for the subdials were a standard size and font. When the contractor produced the dials for UG, it was specified at 9. It could have been at 3 (if that's what UG wanted). In that case, you might have had two "15's".

I vote that dial is original.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa


I think this is also supported by the "15" visible on the minutes subdial.
 
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I think this is also supported by the "15" visible on the minutes subdial.


I think that's a line with a smudge, next to a 5.
 
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So, what was the final verdict on this watch? It looks like it sold for $850-ish if I recall correctly.

To review:

1) lume burn -- can be faked
2) double stamped 45 -- looks weird but seems to be present on other examples
3) ? redial
 
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I think someone got a very nice watch for a slightly below market price. If it doesn't need an expensive chronograph overhaul, they can flip it for an easy profit.

gatorcpa
 
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I agree, for what it worth, that the dial appears original. The standard printing Gator suggested would also help explain the odd placement of the 5 on the minute counter? Could the PAX issue be distortion from the aged crystal?
 
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Is everybody back in their corner now rethinking their strategy? Or is this a bust?

Tune in next week, same bat-time, same bat-channel.
 
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So, what was the final verdict on this watch? It looks like it sold for $850-ish if I recall correctly.

To review:

1) lume burn -- can be faked
2) double stamped 45 -- looks weird but seems to be present on other examples
3) ? redial



You've seen my thoughts on this above. But do you care to elaborate on how lume burn can be faked?
 
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You've seen my thoughts on this above. But do you care to elaborate on how lume burn can be faked?


Hi woodwkr2, I was referring to an older post in this thread from Waynepjr where he mentioned this was being done in Argentina.
 
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Hi woodwkr2, I was referring to an older post in this thread from Waynepjr where he mentioned this was being done in Argentina.


The Argentine dials have a distinctive flair towards, em... shall we say: Crappy. The best even get quite artistic in their reimagination of watchmaking's past.

Now, the Peruvians can make some damn good fakes.

I've heard about baking dials in ovens and mixing lume tints just such... but I've never had anyone explain to me how radium lume burns could be faked in a convincing way.