The dressy-ish watch with the 6-o'clock subdial (a this-or-that query)

Annapolis · Sep 20, 2023

I know some of these are apples-and-oranges in terms of pricing, availability, current-or-past production, material, and (in the case of the JLC, anyway) complication.

But in terms of design concept, they're all pretty much the same: white/silver dial, leather strap, minimalist dial layout with a complication (usually small seconds) at 6. It's a design I really like.

The VC is the only one I've ever owned. Just wondering which among these folks like the most, with any notes on why, if people are so inclined. There are other things to consider (like diameter or what's going on on with the caseback), but I'm mainly interested in people's thoughts about dial aesthetics.

I never used to go for Lange, but I'm starting to lean toward that 1815...

watch_my_six · Sep 20, 2023

Of those, for me, the "dressiest" is probably the JLC, Rolex, or Patek. The one I like the most is probably the Rolex since it strikes the best balance between simplicity, elegance, and character.

gbesq · Sep 20, 2023

I own the JLC and the “original” version of the Seamaster. Pics below. Love them both.

JPE.88305 · Sep 20, 2023

Personally I love the JLC ultrathins and the Seamaster '48 LE (and it's vintage more affordable cousins/predecessors like @gbesq 's above). I love the Lange but it's priced out of my interest range.

noelekal · Sep 20, 2023

I love sub-second dials ever since third grade when I used to idly watch the second hand on my Caravelle watch while sitting bored in class.

Whether it is dressy or a simple town watch, vIntage really warms my heart.

Appealing pocket watches qualify as well.

gbesq · Sep 20, 2023

The Rolex is the least attractive to me, but that’s just me. I just don’t care for their modern design language generally.

Fallout Boy · Sep 20, 2023

winner:

picture modified

gbesq · Sep 20, 2023

noelekal
I love sub-second dials ever since third grade when I used to idly watch the second hand on my Caravelle watch while sitting bored in class.

Whether it is dressy or a simple town watch, vIntage really warms my heart.

Appealing pocket watches qualify as well.

Couldn’t agree more. I’m a sucker for subsecond vintage references.

wagudc · Sep 20, 2023

Annapolis
I never used to go for Lange, but I'm starting to lean toward that 1815...

The Lange is my favorite. Love the blue hands and the double sunk dial. Similar to @noelekal's pocket watch.

NGO1 · Sep 20, 2023

It’s a coin toss between Rolex and Patek for me, if I judge them strictly on design. However, I’m a little Rolex heavy atm, so my money will the on a Calatrava.

Tony C. · Sep 20, 2023

IMO Omega should be reprimanded for that Seamaster design. I mean, it's right there in the Watch Commandments:

Though shalt not attempt to squeeze a subdial above a full, applied, Arabic six o'clock index.

Of the others, I'd go for the Lange. Or a nice vintage...

140dave · Sep 20, 2023

In order, fav to least:
VC
JLC
Omega
PP
AL&S
Rolex
...but I'd wear any/all

DrmexicoII · Sep 20, 2023

Aesthetically the Vacheron and Rolex I like the most. I'm a sucker for a sub second.

Fallout Boy · Sep 20, 2023

My silver sub-sec-dresser - OK, I am vintage-addicted 😉 (sterling-silver, enamel, 1939, dennison case)

o.m.e.g.a · Sep 20, 2023

VC for me.
I suppose there will be a (significant?) thickness differences between those watches ... ?

Annapolis · Sep 20, 2023

The VC and Patek are both very thin. The Lange is a bit thicker, I believe.

Aroxx · Sep 20, 2023

My favorites are the JLC and the Lange. I’m a sucker for that moonphase/date complication on the JLC and I love the blued hands on the Lange. For the simplest design I’d go for the Patek.

Dan S · Sep 20, 2023

I don't like the sub-dial positions on the Patek or Omega, it makes me feel like there is a puny movement hiding behind the dial. And there is something bothering me about the profile of the VC sub-dial, just too much going on with a moat around the raised center, I don't like it.

I like the Lange, Rolex, and JLC.

spacemission · Sep 20, 2023

Dan S
I don't like the sub-dial positions on the Patek or Omega, it makes me feel like there is a puny movement hiding behind the dial. And there is something bothering me about the profile of the VC sub-dial, just too much going on with a moat around the raised center, I don't like it.

I like the Lange, Rolex, and JLC.

The same thing happens with nomos but in spain there is a lot of bla bla bla.

gbesq · Sep 20, 2023

These are just what I have on hand. More at the spa being serviced. 😲