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John Chris
·A De Luca up for sale on eBay has excited some comment on the eBay thread, so I thought it a good time to start a thread on this wonderful series.
"De Luca" is actually a nickname, the name of Zenith's chief agent for Italy at the time, who inspired the original design. Beginning in 1988, this was Zenith's first major new series after the resurrection of the El Primero. The original series ("De Luca I") is characterized by 40mm steel cases with uni-directional rotating black diver's bezel (matte finish until the 4th generation when it became glossy), and either black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. The first series generation came with brown leather straps. The steel De Luca bracelet was optional.
Many think the first generation black-faced version, ref. 01.0042.400 (1,025 produced, 1988-89) was the prettiest. Mine has silver sub-dials, though they also came with white sub-dials. The dial design harkened back to the A277 manual chronograph. The crowns are plain and slightly domed:
The companion white-dial version, ref. 01.0043.400 (790 produced 1988-89) had a different dial design. Note that both of this first generation are marked only "Automatic". The name "El Primero" did not appear again until the next generation. Both of these models are engraved 01.0040.400. The dial reference was not engraved on the watch. Mine has its original brown leather strap:
In 1990, Zenith proceeded in three different directions with the De Lucas. The second generation of the De Luca I series (an example is the one on the eBay thread) underwent a significant change in dial design, for both white and black versions. The hour markers became round, and "Mercedes" style hands were adopted. This design was maintained through the third and fourth generations, the only changes being to the crown and pushers (ending with screw-down versions in generation 4). The fourth and last generation (1994-96) also changed the bezel material. Mine, ref. 02.2313.400, was purchased in 1995 in Germany (not by me). The series ended in 1996 and was succeeded by the Rainbow series in 1997. My white-dialled example of the last generation:
Also in 1990, Zenith issued some "special models" including two in gold and steel. My example is a ref. 89.0315.400, of which 530 were produced. The entire production was shipped to A. Cairelli in Rome. The bracelet is the typical De Luca I design, but with the centre pieces made of gold. Note the similarity in dial design with the black version of the first generation De Luca I:
The third direction was the De Luca II series, produced in 1990-91. They are characterized by sturdy fixed metal bezels with engraved tachymetre scales and diamond-shaped markers. Two of them, in gold and steel (ref. 38.0395.400 - 200 produced 1990), and in steel with a blue dial (ref 01.305.400, 200 produced 1990), take their dial design cues from the white-dialled version of the first generation De Luca I. The bracelets are unique, and presage the Rainbow series design of 1997 and on:
Finally, we have the De Luca IIs in steel with silver (more pearl-like) and black faces, using the sub-dial design from the 89.0315.400, and with matching engraved tachymetre scale. I have not yet found the black-faced one. Here is the silver version (675 produced, 1990-91). I invite you to compare it to the very pretty Rolex Daytona on the Rolex Forum for those who love to spend lots more money:
http://omegaforums.net/threads/new-arrival-today-and-i-like-it.3347/
View attachment 13074 View attachment 13074
In case you are wondering, I am rather fond of De Lucas. They were produced in small batches, and look fantastic, frequently earning compliments while on the wrist. Enjoy!
Chris
"De Luca" is actually a nickname, the name of Zenith's chief agent for Italy at the time, who inspired the original design. Beginning in 1988, this was Zenith's first major new series after the resurrection of the El Primero. The original series ("De Luca I") is characterized by 40mm steel cases with uni-directional rotating black diver's bezel (matte finish until the 4th generation when it became glossy), and either black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. The first series generation came with brown leather straps. The steel De Luca bracelet was optional.
Many think the first generation black-faced version, ref. 01.0042.400 (1,025 produced, 1988-89) was the prettiest. Mine has silver sub-dials, though they also came with white sub-dials. The dial design harkened back to the A277 manual chronograph. The crowns are plain and slightly domed:
The companion white-dial version, ref. 01.0043.400 (790 produced 1988-89) had a different dial design. Note that both of this first generation are marked only "Automatic". The name "El Primero" did not appear again until the next generation. Both of these models are engraved 01.0040.400. The dial reference was not engraved on the watch. Mine has its original brown leather strap:
In 1990, Zenith proceeded in three different directions with the De Lucas. The second generation of the De Luca I series (an example is the one on the eBay thread) underwent a significant change in dial design, for both white and black versions. The hour markers became round, and "Mercedes" style hands were adopted. This design was maintained through the third and fourth generations, the only changes being to the crown and pushers (ending with screw-down versions in generation 4). The fourth and last generation (1994-96) also changed the bezel material. Mine, ref. 02.2313.400, was purchased in 1995 in Germany (not by me). The series ended in 1996 and was succeeded by the Rainbow series in 1997. My white-dialled example of the last generation:
Also in 1990, Zenith issued some "special models" including two in gold and steel. My example is a ref. 89.0315.400, of which 530 were produced. The entire production was shipped to A. Cairelli in Rome. The bracelet is the typical De Luca I design, but with the centre pieces made of gold. Note the similarity in dial design with the black version of the first generation De Luca I:
The third direction was the De Luca II series, produced in 1990-91. They are characterized by sturdy fixed metal bezels with engraved tachymetre scales and diamond-shaped markers. Two of them, in gold and steel (ref. 38.0395.400 - 200 produced 1990), and in steel with a blue dial (ref 01.305.400, 200 produced 1990), take their dial design cues from the white-dialled version of the first generation De Luca I. The bracelets are unique, and presage the Rainbow series design of 1997 and on:
Finally, we have the De Luca IIs in steel with silver (more pearl-like) and black faces, using the sub-dial design from the 89.0315.400, and with matching engraved tachymetre scale. I have not yet found the black-faced one. Here is the silver version (675 produced, 1990-91). I invite you to compare it to the very pretty Rolex Daytona on the Rolex Forum for those who love to spend lots more money:
http://omegaforums.net/threads/new-arrival-today-and-i-like-it.3347/
View attachment 13074 View attachment 13074
In case you are wondering, I am rather fond of De Lucas. They were produced in small batches, and look fantastic, frequently earning compliments while on the wrist. Enjoy!
Chris
