Quarantine photography!

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Here's is a technical answer, so please bear with me.
When light shines the crystal of the watch, some of it some of it goes through (transmitted) to illuminate the dial and the rest is reflected off the surface (that might produce glare in your picture). The reflected light gets to be polarized due to the nature of light interacting with crystal's material. The amount of polarization occurring depends on the angle of the source of light hitting the crystal surface. No polarization occurs if the light hits the crystal straight on (ie at 0 degree) and a maximum if the light hits at around 60 degrees (called Brewster's angle). A polarization filter on your camera can remove this polarized light (reducing glare) but its effectiveness depends on the amount polarization of the reflected light. Look at the attached picture, we the see the filter is very effective removing glare off the picture frame glass but notice this glare is daylight coming from a window at rather large angle. In the case of your picture of the nice Polerouter, the light source seems to coming a more moderate angle (hitting the curved surface of the crystal) so my guess a filter would have been partially effective in removing the glare.


Thanks so much for that. Very helpful. I've also recently been playing around with Luminar (amazing software in my opinion) and there is a polarising filter function that can be used in post-processing. I haven't tried it yet, not sure if it's as good as the real deal but worth a shot. Polarising filters can be expensive!

 
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Peakaboo with a Rose Breasted Grosbeak....
 
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Omega Seamaster 2846-1SC Cal. 501 from 1956. With a waffle dial 😉

Shot this using my Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 100 mm f/2.8 IS L lens. Westcott Icelight 2 and a diffuse + reflector for lighting
 
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Daily Visitor to our rear yard.


Such a cool capture! He didn't around for long lol, had a goal in mind
 
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This quarantine has done nothing but feed my mesh watch strap addiction!
 
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And a few more of my 168.005. Trying different f-stop values and composition.


Omega Seamaster 2846-1SC Cal. 501 from 1956. With a waffle dial 😉

Shot this using my Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 100 mm f/2.8 IS L lens. Westcott Icelight 2 and a diffuse + reflector for lighting
Love the warmth of the shot!
 
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Couple of shots in the garden ( macro mode, no macro lens )
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II



older photo
 
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Couple of shots in the garden ( macro mode, no macro lens )
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II



older photo
Nice! What lense are you using? I only got the one that came with the kit, but I bought some adapter for my manual lenses (Nikon and Pentax)... Obviously cropped but I really get nice results
 
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Just the stock lens bought with the camera.

Did buy a pancake lens
 
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We're all mostly stuck inside. I've purchased some new camera gear and have some more spare time for pictures. I thought we could create a thread to post some of this stuff. I'm using a Canon 5D Mark II, these were taken using a Tamron 90 mm macro lens/Canon EF 24-70 mm. I'm using natural daylight and an Icelight2 for lighting. I'm open to feedback, I'm looking to improve my game! If you guys think you have any tips, particular re: lighting I'm open to hearing them.

Longines Conquest 9024-2.



Omega Constellation 168.005 Cal 564 from 1970

Crisp photos !
Well done
 
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Thank goodness our garden is not overlooked, jumping around it like a man possessed chasing this bee and finally the iPhone managed a half decent shot 🤔


If 1 out of a 100 bee photos are in focus, you are doing good. Love the shade of that lavender.
 
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Couple of shots in the garden ( macro mode, no macro lens )
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II

Same camera (your recommendation), same subject, other side of the globe.

 
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And a few more of my 168.005. Trying different f-stop values and composition.


Thanks for sharing your photos -

Took this on my iPhone - late afternoon light so I just closed the blinds. Background lighting provides depth and another layer to composition.