Point Focus vs Stacking

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Been reading about this recently. How do you find Helicon in terms of user friendliness / ease of use?

Well after the usual couple pf hours of yelling at the computer I now find it easy and free flowing.

You can get 30 days trial.

I also use Zerene Stacker.
 
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Okay I think this is the best result I am going to get with my equipment and skill level.
 
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I've been playing with Helicon Focus today too - Canon 600D with a Canon 60mm macro lens, on a tripod... so the whole thing is automated nicely.

Example - Grand Seiko "Snowflake" - focus on the logo:

(crown pulled out to freeze the sweep hand)

Here's the stacked one...
 
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A Focus stacking that i did using photoshop. I messed up because i dind't account for the background 😀

 
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Another comparison - a little more OF oriented 😀

Focus on lower bezel
... and on the top of the bezel



... and stacked
 
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1 pic of the 29... 😉

As a curiosity, have you tried comparing a high fstop vs stacked focus?
In my mind it would seem like you would get greater sharpness with stacked focus.
 
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As a curiosity, have you tried comparing a high fstop vs stacked focus?
In my mind it would seem like you would get greater sharpness with stacked focus.

It was shot with F8. Any higher F stop results in much higher diffraction.
(F5.6 or F4 would be a little sharper, but adds too much work)
 
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It was shot with F8. Any higher F stop results in much higher diffraction.
(F5.6 or F4 would be a little sharper, but adds too much work)

Ah and thats what causes that halo shimmery effect. Thank you 😀
 
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Stacking is a neat trick but is fussy and takes real practice and patience. If you are serious about wanting the best results for product work like this (as in you can justify the expense for the camera gear) use a tilt shift/ PC (perspective control) lens and get it in a single shot.
A PC lens will give you simple controls akin to a view camera (large format camera) to control perspective (shift/rise/fall) and focus control (swings/tilts) which is how product photography has been done for decades. A real view camera (be it film or digital back) is the ideal way to have absolute control as you can use all movements simultaneously, but the DSLR PC lenses are a great tool and get you 80% there.
They aren’t cheap, but they do the job optically without relying on software to figure things out for you.
I use them on my Nikon’s for architectural work (19 & 24mm) and (45 & 85mm) for quick product work in the studio and even environmental portraits (when the architectural context is just as important as the person in the picture). Canon makes a line of them as well and adapters are available for use on Sony mirrorless.
a pro Architectural tog came to my work. The tilt/shift images were great. No converging lines, everything straight. It looked brilliant. Theryre expensive though.
 
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a pro Architectural tog came to my work. The tilt/shift images were great. No converging lines, everything straight. It looked brilliant. Theryre expensive though.
They are. But for someone who does Architectural or product work they are indispensable. Just like any tool- you pay for the good stuff that does the job right every time.
 
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Tudor BB58, 8 pictures stacked 😀
Camera: Canon EOS 77D
Objective: EF24-70mm f/4L IS USM (70mm in macro mode)
Aperture: f/4
ISO: 100
Shutter speed: 1/6s
Software: Helicon Remote and Helicon Focus

 
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Stacking is a neat trick but is fussy and takes real practice and patience. If you are serious about wanting the best results for product work like this (as in you can justify the expense for the camera gear) use a tilt shift/ PC (perspective control) lens and get it in a single shot.

The PC control doesn't do the same as stacking. The former re-orients the object plane; the stacking technique increases effective depth of field (without the loss of resolution caused by diffraction by using a smaller aperture).
 
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Still more technical shit for more layers.

I’m sorry. There’s just part of me that’s a Luddite. All the high tech gimmicks are just draining after a while.



I’ll shut up now.

Sorry.

Leica M3, Leica M3, Leica M3.... (ah, I’m better now)
 
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Still more technical shit for more layers.

I’m sorry. There’s just part of me that’s a Luddite. All the high tech gimmicks are just draining after a while.



I’ll shut up now.

Sorry.

Leica M3, Leica M3, Leica M3.... (ah, I’m better now)
Somebody call?