One and done: Submariner?

duc
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Meyrin Meyrin
Absolutely! That´s what I have, an old 14060 2-liner, bought new in 1996, still my everyday watch, "jingly-jangly" bracelet (I love i!) and all. According to my AD bracelet stretch is still quite acceptable. A tough-as-nails, superbly reliable watch. And yes, the tritium lume is dead, but I don´t care! Highly recommended if one can be found in good condition...many have had a hard life, like mine!
Nothing speaks to this crowd like pictures 😉
 
Meyrin
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pdxleaf pdxleaf
Would love a picture (or two)!
Here you go! Crappy photos, but you get the idea...!? That´s the original old-style box and papers, too. Cheers!
IMG_1725a.jpg IMG_1749.JPG IMG_2043.jpg
 
mikeo1
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Fallout Boy Fallout Boy
.... but the four-digit ROLEX-Universe is more than dangerous 😲

Not sure what you mean?? would you explain
 
watch3s
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mikeo1 mikeo1
Not sure what you mean?? would you explain

Vintage is a minefield especially if you dont do your homework
 
mikeo1
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Doesn't collecting pretty much involve a fair amount of homework anyway?
To me nothing more interesting/appealing than the patina of a 4 digit with a history of 60 or
70 years and it's heart still beating away -- the basis of Rolex Quality
 
Fallout Boy
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mikeo1 mikeo1
Not sure what you mean?? would you explain
You have to be very careful (and spend a lot of money) to find and buy an original 5513 e.g. Most of them are handicrafts with changed (later) parts. Just look at the hands or bezels. Tritium mixed with Radium, Swiss Only on wrong dials, over-polished cases , movement does not match case....
 
mikeo1
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Perhaps my opinion is contrarian but to me there is some intrinsic value in a watche's history, some sort of an attractiveness line between "history" and "jewelry". I also find the "original" propostion now getting thrown around as much as the "unpolished" term was tossed around previously (of course there are obvious cases of both) -- when done correctly do refreshed hands, inserts, crowns, mainspring barrels, rotor bushings...ruin the value of a vintage timepiece? Parts wear out, break from use...what makes a used watch purchase "safe"? 5 and 6 digit watches also go without service, get abused, dropped "over polished". To me buying any "used" watch, regardless if the number of reference digits, is always a risk (frankens everywhere) --if the buyer doesn't want to spend the time (fun) to get "up to speed" they can source their watch buy paying a bit more and sourcing from a seller that authenticates or from a seller that allows returns and the buyer paying for a inspection within the return period...
 
mcs101
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After (too) much research for a similar hunt several years ago, I chose a 14060M, specifically one of the last “two line” models. More robust than the four digit models, newer movement than older ones, including the 14060, classic look, and - for me - better wearing compared to the size and weight of newer models. I also like that it’s more understated than the date version and that I don’t have to set the date if I haven’t worn it for a while.

I’m sure whatever you decide on will be great. In the meantime, enjoy the pursuit!
Edited:
 
Matt87
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140dave 140dave
Hi OF

This year the plan is for a bit of diversification and adding a few iconic watches to the collection. IMO no collection should be without the quintessential diver, the Submariner.

But which one should be (would you have) in place for a single-sub within a mixed collection of modern and vintage watches ? I want to wear it, around water if not in, and I want to be able to service it as well, if and as needed.

I know the differences in the models on paper, but not live or on the wrist so I am looking for some opinions as it isn’t exactly practical to say “try them on and see what works best”.

I lean towards a 5 digit (14060 or 16610) so I can get the combo of modern and vintage. But even within that, say the 14060…. Tritium or Luminova? Lug holes or no? 14060 or 14060M? Or that area around 2001 where you have the combo of hole case but SEL? So many options!

Between comfort, good daily wear, collectible fun, ability to have few issues with service etc, what SINGLE sub model would you have in your collection? Modern is fine but I do have a soft spot for a T dial and slimmer cases, just not sure on future serviceability with tritium furniture.

So one Sub to wear, not look at in my watch box. Opinions and suggestions? Thanks OFers!

Really nice question... I didn't have a Sub in my collection until now but I had a SD 16600 (amazing watch!!). Unfortunately I sold that to pay part of my Master Degree and now I'm looking to buy a 124060... For me the real Submariner is the no date one!!
 
TheGreekPhysique
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Dan S Dan S
I think that you should decide the date/no-date question based on your personal taste and that will help you start narrowing things down. I generally prefer no-date, but the date is obviously a useful function.

Based on the preferences you've indicated, I would probably suggest an early 90s 5-digit (14060 or 16610) with attractively aged tritium lume. However, more often, I personally choose to wear a 4-digit. They're not as modern, but for me the matte dial without white-gold-surrounds, and the domed acrylic crystals, are much more appealing. If I had to sell all my Subs but one, the keeper would definitely be a matte dial 4-digit no-date (i.e. 5512/5513).

Don't wait too long, it's a good time to buy.

Very good time to buy.
 
drpaul
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Wow. A thread I was looking for. I too am on a lookout for a sub. Any links to literature/ sale postings, with any helpful comments will be greatly appreciated and help many. This forum is a treasure trove.
Cheers.
 
josiahg52
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drpaul drpaul
Wow. A thread I was looking for. I too am on a lookout for a sub. Any links to literature/ sale postings, with any helpful comments will be greatly appreciated and help many. This forum is a treasure trove.
Cheers.

I find some of the information at Bob's Watches is helpful.

I know I want a probably a mid-80s ref. 16800 with matte dial, tritium, and sapphire crystal, or a much later ref. 16610 after 2000 and up to 2002 with a P, K, or Y serial number that have a gloss dial, white gold surrounds, holes case, plain rehaut, and Superluminova
 
Dan S
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pdxleaf pdxleaf
No risk in this 4 digit.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/rol...from-1977-unpolished-killer-condition.167917/
That’s a decent watch, but it’s quite worn and I would not sell it as unpolished. Just my opinion, so no hate please. But I agree it looks totally legit and apparently original with correct date wheel and bracelet. I have no experience with the seller but he is obviously well established. So no risk. Many dealers are selling comparable 1680s for $12000 usd at the moment.
Edited:
 
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