Omega 300 - Restoring Water Resistance

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Hello watch repairers,

I recently acquired this Omega Seamaster 2252.50 from the mid-2000s. Likely has never been serviced.

I would really love to get it back up to spec for water resistance, and if not diving then at least able to kayak, fly fish, etc.

I called Grand Central Watch who quoted me $55 to dry pressure test it, but was basically saying it’s a waste to do it without overhauling all the gaskets. I didn’t get an estimated price for that, but I assume very expensive since just the pressure testing is absurdly high.

I have a nice basic set of watch tools already, and have taken apart and reassembled a few movements myself. Is it feasible to replace the gaskets myself and then take it to be dry pressure tested (recs for somewhere in NYC)? Would it be hard to source the right parts? Is there something else I would need to do in order to make sure it’s ready for a swim?

Thanks all

K
 
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Most watchmakers, certainly an Omega shop, will pressure test for free if they have the time. Your watch needs a service anyway, so why put off the service?
 
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Most watchmakers, certainly an Omega shop, will pressure test for free if they have the time. Your watch needs a service anyway, so why put off the service?
The cost felt prohibitive, and since it's new to me and running well I was hoping to put it off a bit until I felt sure I'd be keeping it for a long time.

But you make a very good point
 
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You gotta pay to play. Either pony up and get it serviced or don’t take it near the water. Yes you can change the gaskets yourself but the ones in the crown and He valve will need doing also which aren’t trivial.
 
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You gotta pay to play. Either pony up and get it serviced or don’t take it near the water. Yes you can change the gaskets yourself but the ones in the crown and He valve will need doing also which aren’t trivial.
Alright, sage advice
 
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If you need to ask how to do it, you must realise there’s a decent chance that even if you change the seals you may not do a good job, giving a false sense of security.

I agree with others, either keep it away from water or get it properly serviced.if you’re not sure if it’s a keeper, just wear it for a few weeks away from water to see what you think before making a call
 
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If you need to ask how to do it, you must realise there’s a decent chance that even if you change the seals you may not do a good job, giving a false sense of security.

I agree with others, either keep it away from water or get it properly serviced.if you’re not sure if it’s a keeper, just wear it for a few weeks away from water to see what you think before making a call
okay I'm convinced, will take it for an evaluation this week
 
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$55 for just a pressure test? Nuts!

Yes, if you have some skill and patience, you can replace the seals. There are 5 seals in total, but you can likely skip the crystal seal - that would be the most difficult as a DIY as you need a very good press.

The crown seal is 088NS0423 - d2.5 D3.7 ø0.6

The case back seal is 088NS5134 - d31.5 D33.5 ø1

There are 2 seals in the HEV...

The cap seal - 088NS0435 - d2 D3.2 ø0.6
The tube seal - 088NS0436 - d1 D2 ø0.5

The case back seal you could likely find, as there are a wide variety of these sizes available out there. The smaller O-rings for the crown and HEV will be tougher as the available sizes to choose from in generic assortments is much more limited.
 
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If you are having issues with the case itself, you can call Zimmerman Watch Repair. They can micro weld imperfections. This happened on my Speedmaster. Some gauges made it unable to pass a pressure test. They fixed it no problem. Pretty wild!
 
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$55 for just a pressure test? Nuts!

Yes, if you have some skill and patience, you can replace the seals. There are 5 seals in total, but you can likely skip the crystal seal - that would be the most difficult as a DIY as you need a very good press.

The crown seal is 088NS0423 - d2.5 D3.7 ø0.6

The case back seal is 088NS5134 - d31.5 D33.5 ø1

There are 2 seals in the HEV...

The cap seal - 088NS0435 - d2 D3.2 ø0.6
The tube seal - 088NS0436 - d1 D2 ø0.5

The case back seal you could likely find, as there are a wide variety of these sizes available out there. The smaller O-rings for the crown and HEV will be tougher as the available sizes to choose from in generic assortments is much more limited.
This is really useful! As the 2252.50 is a mid size i'm guessing all these part numbers are unique to the mid size seamaster. Is there an easy place to find part numbers? Just so I can find all the part numbers for the seals for my 2531.80 41mm seamaster. Cheers
 
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$55 for just a pressure test? Nuts!

Yes, if you have some skill and patience, you can replace the seals. There are 5 seals in total, but you can likely skip the crystal seal - that would be the most difficult as a DIY as you need a very good press.

The crown seal is 088NS0423 - d2.5 D3.7 ø0.6

The case back seal is 088NS5134 - d31.5 D33.5 ø1

There are 2 seals in the HEV...

The cap seal - 088NS0435 - d2 D3.2 ø0.6
The tube seal - 088NS0436 - d1 D2 ø0.5

The case back seal you could likely find, as there are a wide variety of these sizes available out there. The smaller O-rings for the crown and HEV will be tougher as the available sizes to choose from in generic assortments is much more limited.
If looking by diameter and cross-section, CousinsUK has a nice selection of small o-rings by size. I (think) I was able to scratch an itch regarding a TAG crown gasket that's undersize from EVERY other TAG Aquaracer crown gasket on the planet. Time and a Proofmaster will tell.
 
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If looking by diameter and cross-section, CousinsUK has a nice selection of small o-rings by size. I (think) I was able to scratch an itch regarding a TAG crown gasket that's undersize from EVERY other TAG Aquaracer crown gasket on the planet. Time and a Proofmaster will tell.
I guess I could pull all the gaskets out of my Seamaster and measure them all and get them from cousins. I was just hoping that info would be online somewhere.
 
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Just so I can find all the part numbers for the seals for my 2531.80 41mm seamaster.
What is the case number?
 
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Thanks for the help! Just to check - when you say “case number,” do you mean the reference number like 2231.50.00, or something else? The only number I can see on the outside of the watch is the serial number engraved on the underside of the lug, which is 8019xxxx.

If you’re referring to a different number, could you let me know where I’d find it on the watch? Thanks
 
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Thanks for the help! Just to check - when you say “case number,” do you mean the reference number like 2231.50.00, or something else? The only number I can see on the outside of the watch is the serial number engraved on the underside of the lug, which is 8019xxxx.

If you’re referring to a different number, could you let me know where I’d find it on the watch? Thanks
The number inside the case back…
 
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$55 for a dry pressure test sounds like a combination of (1) We've got you over a barrel, we can print money AND/OR (2) we really don't want the work.
Others have wisely pointed you at the need to invest in looking after your watches and I'd agree.
I look forward to seeing this watch please.
 
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I have previously done my 2531.50 using the same part numbers and diameters (except the caseback) as Archer quotes above. I used the diameters to choose equivalent gasket sizes on Cousins.
Afterwards I took it to my local watchmaker for a pressure test, which it passed (I suspect they only tested it to 50m but that's fine for the odd dip in a pool - which I've done numerous times since. I don't dive).
If it's useful, these are the Cousins stock numbers I used (please check the diameters against Archer's above in case they have changed).
Crown G30887
Caseback 1003600 (note, this is the larger one for the 2531.50, which will be too large for the mid-sized watch)
HEV C8423 and G62206
You'll need to be comfortable dismantling the HEV, and have some loctite and silicone grease on hand, but it's pretty straightforward.
Edited:
 
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I’ve had my ref 2231.80 (same caliber as yours) for almost 30 years now and have had it serviced 5-6 times with the last time being this past winter. Granted I used it as a tool watch for diving work, so it saw a lot of water and use in its first 15 years, but would have done the services anyway. Services by OMEGA started out at $500 and are now $700 (my experience) if nothing major needs to be replaced for that era watch. My last service included hands, new case back and new dial. OMEGA treated me right. Get the watch serviced by OMEGA and you won’t be disappointed. Yes, it’s an every five year investment, but you’ll basically have a brand new watch returned to you each time. Look at it like this, just do without three lattes or two beers per month and you’ll easily cover the service cost every five years!

 
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I have previously done my 2531.50 using the same part numbers and diameters (except the caseback) as Archer quotes above. I used the diameters to choose equivalent gasket sizes on Cousins.
Afterwards I took it to my local watchmaker for a pressure test, which it passed (I suspect they only tested it to 50m but that's fine for the odd dip in a pool - which I've done numerous times since. I don't dive).
If it's useful, these are the Cousins stock numbers I used (please check the diameters against Archer's above in case they have changed).
Crown G30887
Caseback 1003600 (note, this is the larger one for the 2531.50, which will be too large for the mid-sized watch)
HEV C8423 and G62206
You'll need to be comfortable dismantling the HEV, and have some loctite and silicone grease on hand, but it's pretty straightforward.
Thanks so much for those stock numbers they are super handy! I'll crack open the watch soon when i find a tool and get that case number to confirm.
 
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I called Grand Central Watch who quoted me $55 to dry pressure test it, but was basically saying it’s a waste to do it without overhauling all the gaskets. I didn’t get an estimated price for that, but I assume very expensive since just the pressure testing is absurdly high.
$55 for just a pressure test? Nuts!
$55 for a dry pressure test sounds like a combination of (1) We've got you over a barrel, we can print money AND/OR (2) we really don't want the work.
This watch repair company appears to be not only a rip-off, but possibly a scam. Although I don't live in NYC, over the course of time, I have actually purchased two watches that had been recently serviced by them, with the same fancy paperwork. On both occasions, there were serious problems that had to be sorted out by my watchmaker. In one case, he said that the movement was so dry, he was skeptical that it had been serviced. Sometimes a reputation is based more on marketing than actual competence. And paying the most money doesn't always get you quality work.