Maybe The Best Of The Rolex vs. Omega

iosist · Wed. 9:13pm

I think it's much more interesting to confine the comparison to the mid-century vintage era. It's basically self-evident that Omega completely fell apart in the 70s whereas Rolex was able to chart a successful path forward, whatever one thinks of it. But in the 50s and 60s, Omega and Rolex were much more evenly matched. The Anton Kreuzer book has this interesting passage about their closely competitive numbers in chronometer certificates in this period.

So with these vintage watches, I think preference is driven much more by differentiation in brand marketing image. Like take these two ads from the late 60's which are doing basically the exact same thing in different ways.

988ce1_14aeb928aeb242e9a2ef0519d275ba3a~mv2.webp

People often repeat the idea that old Rolex was a down-to-earth, rugged, toolwatch company. But I don't think that's really it. Both ads here are relying on essentially the same aspirational luxury lifestyle marketing approach. To me the real difference is that Rolex embraces the aesthetics and language of modern, mass industrial society whereas Omega positions itself as inheritor and champion of a more romantic, classical tradition of horology. Obviously both are Swiss but it feels not dissimilar to differences in European and American tastes. Personally, the Rolex approach feels almost vulgar in comparison to Omega's refinement, but I can also see how others view this as cutting edge and radical against Omega's comparatively stodgy traditionalism. But I think that basic dichotomy can be seen all over, for instance in the difference between Rolex's descriptive names (DateJust, Submariner) and Omega's evocative ones (Constellation, Seamaster).

*Editing to note that I just realized that the Omega ad is from 1955 and the Rolex ad is I think from the mid 60s so it is not an entirely fair comparison. But I think the overall assessment still holds.

Foo2rama · Wed. 9:17pm

iosist
I think it's much more interesting to confine the comparison to the mid-century vintage era. It's basically self-evident that Omega completely fell apart in the 70s whereas Rolex was able to chart a successful path forward, whatever one thinks of it. But in the 50s and 60s, Omega and Rolex were much more evenly matched. The Anton Kreuzer book has this interesting passage about their closely competitive numbers in chronometer certificates in this period.

So with these vintage watches, I think preference is driven much more by differentiation in brand marketing image. Like take these two ads from the late 60's which are doing basically the exact same thing in different ways.

People often repeat the idea that old Rolex was a down-to-earth, rugged, toolwatch company. But I don't think that's really it. Both ads here are relying on essentially the same aspirational luxury lifestyle marketing approach. To me the real difference is that Rolex embraces the aesthetics and language of modern, mass industrial society whereas Omega positions itself as inheritor and champion of a more romantic, classical tradition of horology. Obviously both are Swiss but it feels not dissimilar to differences in European and American tastes. Personally, the Rolex approach feels almost vulgar in comparison to Omega's refinement, but I can also see how others view this as cutting edge and radical against Omega's comparatively stodgy traditionalism. But I think that basic dichotomy can be seen all over, for instance in the difference between Rolex's descriptive names (DateJust, Submariner) and Omega's evocative ones (Constellation, Seamaster).

*Editing to note that I just realized that the Omega ad is from 1955 and the Rolex ad is I think from the mid 60s so it is not an entirely fair comparison. But I think the overall assessment still holds.

So do you know why Rolex weathered the quartz crisis better than most? They did something very specific, and it had nothing to do with quality or technology.

Hint you’re missing a key point about thier advertising… they were not advertising aspirational… something slightly different.

iosist · Wed. 10:08pm

Foo2rama
So do you know why Rolex weathered the quartz crisis better than most? They did something very specific, and it had nothing to do with quality or technology.

Hint you’re missing a key point about thier advertising… they were not advertising aspirational… something slightly different.

I don't think the forum format is particularly well suited to the Socratic method but please, go on!

SpeedyPhill · Thurs. 4:13am

Nowadays quasi all wrist watch brands no longer produce pure "toolwatches" (with a few exceptions), everything turned into Bling Bling
Why not present the Rolex ads showing their watches on the wrists of military personnel (US Navy, US Air Force) to highlight their "toolwatch" aspect?
Good read: Selling The Crown - The Secret History of Marketing Rolex (2022 Brendan Cunningham)
.

shafa.ali.muj009 · Thurs. 4:26am

gbesq
I know, I know. It has been done 1,000 times. That being said, I’d have to say that this is the best discussion about Omega and Rolex that I’ve seen. What do you think?

The video makes good points, but the comparison will always be apples vs oranges unless both brands play the same game and they don’t anymore.

97TJ · Thurs. 7:20am

shafa.ali.muj009
The video makes good points, but the comparison will always be apples vs oranges unless both brands play the same game and they don’t anymore.

I agree, Omega needs to completely overhaul their target marketing and get in the game, who gives a rat's shit George looney wears an Omega? Just lame.

Foo2rama · Thurs. 9:16am

iosist
I don't think the forum format is particularly well suited to the Socratic method but please, go on!

So no…

Richard_C · Thurs. 9:46am

For the purpose of telling the time, Omega and Rolex are equals, as are many brands costing much less. My lorus that I wear in the workshop is fine.

For the purpose of passing on wealth to the next generation Rolex is probably better. For the purpose of looking good, it’s a personal aesthetics.

Associations ? I think bond branding is tacky, but Omega didn’t host the president at the tennis final days after he imposed tariffs. But omega brand is being used and abused on swatches and beginning to look cheap. Rolex is staying above all that.

Maybe omega is the less obvious choice, the person who would buy an Audi not a BMW (or back in the day, buy a SAAB rather than either). Are Rolex wearers more likely to drive Tesla’s, Omega Lexus. Who knows. What’s the brand share in different markets round the world, West Coast v East Coast? Jazz v Classical? Cool kids or establishment? Geeks or Artists?

They are both a badge, but a badge of what? Wealth certainly, but what else?

njlam · Thurs. 11:22am

With Rolex pissing off its existing customers and making it extremely discouraging for new customers to buy their first Rolex, Omega really has an opportunity.

Back in the 60s before the quartz crisis, Omega and Rolex were pretty even, with Omega maybe having a slight edge. Omega really fumbled the ball in the 70s and has struggled to catch up.

While Omega makes a nice watch, they are still behind Rolex by a significant margin.

spacemission · Thurs. 11:47am

SpeedyPhill
Nowadays quasi all wrist watch brands no longer produce pure "toolwatches" (with a few exceptions), everything turned into Bling Bling
Why not present the Rolex ads showing their watches on the wrists of military personnel (US Navy, US Air Force) to highlight their "toolwatch" aspect?
Good read: Selling The Crown - The Secret History of Marketing Rolex (2022 Brendan Cunningham)
.

I would like a new turn o graph.

Is anyone actually listening in Geneve?

ErichKeane · Thurs. 12:02pm

N njlam
With Rolex pissing off its existing customers and making it extremely discouraging for new customers to buy their first Rolex, Omega really has an opportunity.

Back in the 60s before the quartz crisis, Omega and Rolex were pretty even, with Omega maybe having a slight edge. Omega really fumbled the ball in the 70s and has struggled to catch up.

While Omega makes a nice watch, they are still behind Rolex by a significant margin.

My OB SA tells me that they get a ton of walk-ins who try to buy a Rolex at the Ben Bridge next door, and walk in to Omega to 'see whats there', and get a good amount of sales that way. Omega REALLY needs to make sure that all of their watches are available at all OBs/ADs to take advantage of that sort of thing.

pdxleaf · Thurs. 12:38pm

ErichKeane
My OB SA tells me that they get a ton of walk-ins who try to buy a Rolex at the Ben Bridge next door, and walk in to Omega to 'see whats there', and get a good amount of sales that way. Omega REALLY needs to make sure that all of their watches are available at all OBs/ADs to take advantage of that sort of thing.

That sounds consistent with the thought that when neophytes want to buy a luxury watch they only know the Rolex brand and innocently think they can go to a store and buy one. Then seeing they can't but stilling wanting to buy a watch, they turn to what's available. The tricky part in this equation is that Omega is able to convince someone to put down money.

njlam · Thurs. 2:52pm

ErichKeane
My OB SA tells me that they get a ton of walk-ins who try to buy a Rolex at the Ben Bridge next door, and walk in to Omega to 'see whats there', and get a good amount of sales that way. Omega REALLY needs to make sure that all of their watches are available at all OBs/ADs to take advantage of that sort of thing.

We must live in the same town...

I wish there were more Omega models I wanted...Rolex has a timeless/consistent design language, if you want one, you want many....Omega not so much.

ErichKeane · Thurs. 3:18pm

N njlam
We must live in the same town...

I wish there were more Omega models I wanted...Rolex has a timeless/consistent design language, if you want one, you want many....Omega not so much.

I'm the opposite😀 therr are only 2 Rolex I care about, and I have both. There are plenty of Omegas that are filling my watch box.

njlam · Thurs. 3:35pm

ErichKeane
I'm the opposite😀 therr are only 2 Rolex I care about, and I have both. There are plenty of Omegas that are filling my watch box.

Must be two sides of the same coin.

The only two Omegas I want I have (Speedmaster Pro (321/3861) and the new Seamaster Diver), While I also have all the Rolex models I want (DD/DJ/GMT), there are variants (and possible variants) within each model to keep me interested in acquiring more.

Its weird, Omega makes too many models with too many variants, and Rolex makes fewer models with not enough variants. Perhaps Omega can learn something from Rolex?

pdxleaf · Thurs. 4:41pm

N njlam
Perhaps Omega can learn something from Rolex?

Hope not.

ErichKeane · Thurs. 7:42pm

pdxleaf
Hope not.

Yeah, same. IMO, Omega's variety of color schemes in all of their models is their strength. They keep the 'spirit' of the watches, while having enough different 'vibes' that many people can find one that matches them. They aren't pokemon, you don't have to get them all, just the ones that speak to you! I think that is one of their fantastic strengths. AND, they manage to have most colors available in most places, rather than a waitlist for the ONE OP/DJ color scheme that you want.

bananapeanut · Fri. 1:55am

To me it's never been Rolex vs Omega but Submariner & Speedmaster. It's the two watches I always gravitate toward and if Omega had made the Submariner and Rolex the Speedmaster, I'd love them both all the same and it would make no difference. Now when it comes to comparing new vs old, I see no reason to like vintage Speedmasters and not like modern ones. It's the only design Omega has been consistent with. A 2025 moonwatch looks exactly like 1970s one. The Submariner is a different story. I see plenty of reasons to like vintage Submariners and not like modern ones. They're getting bigger, heavier and shinier. I only wish Rolex would make them like they used too. The perfect combo: a modern Speedy 321 and a vintage no date Sub.

97TJ · Fri. 7:21am

N njlam
Perhaps Omega can learn something from Rolex?

Perhaps Omega can attend Rolex' "How to make your patsy feel like an elitist in one hour" training class seminar.

njlam · Fri. 9:36am

Don't get me wrong, I think Rolex treats most of the watch buying world horribly.

I just think Omega could capitalize on this better if they made more watches I wanted.

The consistency of the design language is what does it for me with regards to Rolex. A new DD looks like an old DD, same with the DJ, same with the Sub, same with the GMT and so on. It make for an aspirational desire.

The only watch Omega has like this is the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Most other models have had some design language change that makes them unrecognizable from watches you may have admired from years gone by.

Most importantly, bracelets matter. The Oyster, the Jubilee and the President are all iconic and make Rolexes recognizable from every angle. Omega bracelets are what make Omega's strap monsters; forgetable and poorly made.

There is so much low lying fruit for Omega to pick!!!