Longines 12.68z 1935 "calatrava"

LRX_12 · Apr 15, 2021

Hey there,

My first post here in the Longines forum! I wanted to present you my only Longines.

Another so-called "Calatrava" Longines 😀. Of course it is not a Calatrava but for now I do not have the reference of my piece. The serial number indicates that it was produced in 1935 (5'345'xxx). The movement and caseback serials exactly match. It is powered by a manual wound 12.68z caliber which seems to be the earliest version since it has the nice single "internal" case screw. The case is 32-32.5mm in "staybrite" stainless steel. The crown is unsigned and the hands are very nicely blued, I love them.

At first I did not find any piece that looked like mine (the majority have a dial with an "horizontal" 9) on the internet. However, @Syrte has what it seems to be the exact same reference as mine! I found it in this post:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/recent-acquisition-a-steel-longines-calatrava.16026/#post-1447010

Do you have more information to share regarding your very nice watch @Syrte ?

On my side I asked Longines for an extract of the archives so I will be able to know more about my watch. By the way I find it amazing that Longines is providing this service for free when other manufactures like to add a quite substantial fee for the same service.

I need to find a nice 15mm strap now as the one currently fitted is quite used and too large!

Here are some pictures of my watch, hope you like it 😉 Thanks for reading and if you have any information to share about this reference please do it!

Syrte · Apr 15, 2021

Welcome and congrats on your nice watch. If you hang around you’ll see we don’t call those “calatravas” here and many are irked by the hyped-up marketing lingo.

I’ll have to look up my own records, but at first blush a serial number 53xxxx seems more like it was sold in 1937.
You should send pictures to Longines to get an extract of archive within a few days, it’s fast and free.

Personally I don’t really care what reference a watch is, Ionly care that it looks good and is original-- and this appears to be both 👍

Best regards,
S

LRX_12 · Apr 15, 2021

Thanks Syrte. Yes I indeed know Calatrava is widely uncorrectely used to hype watches (hence my ironical « so-called » reference which I probably should have used more subtly 😉).

I actually already contacted Longines with pictures. I found a serial number table indicating that 1935 started with 5´333´000 to 5´416´000. This table is maybe not as precise as your records ! Did you request an extract for your piece I linked above as well?

And thanks for confirming that everything looks original! Should the crown be unsigned? I guess that might be the case considering the period it was produced.

And yes it does look good 😀

best

DirtyDozen12 · Apr 15, 2021

Very nice watch. It is neat to see another example that is just like @Syrte's. I would actually guess that the watch was invoiced in 1936. Your unsigned crown is correct. Here is a little 10.68Z (serial 5'324'xxx) I have that was invoiced to Ostersetzer (Italy) in June of 1936.

Syrte · Apr 15, 2021

Indeed the crown should be unsigned.
I somehow cannot find an extract for my watch, I may have lost it, but I have a completely different watch with serial number 5344xxx, and it was sold in July 1936. I might have to seek another extract for my watch that’s similar to yours.

PS - you also need a correctly sized 15mm fixed lug strap 😉

wagudc · Apr 15, 2021

Call it what you will, it is a little gem of a watch to me.

LRX_12 · Apr 15, 2021

@DirtyDozen12 very interesting case shape, I love the sharp angles. The dial is very similar to mine, quite a "reduced" version!

@Syrte yes, quite hard to find 15mm fixed lugs strap though. I will keep my eyes open... I suspect my watch was issued in 1936 as well. Will have more info later !

@wagudc thanks, even though 32mm is small considering actual standards, I like its look !

berrychlossom · Apr 15, 2021

@LRX_12 So far I've seen three of your watches and they're all amazing. Very tasteful collection

Syrte · Apr 15, 2021

LRX_12
@Syrte yes, quite hard to find 15mm fixed lugs strap though. I will keep my eyes open... !

If you’re interested I know an Italian craftsman who can make one at very reasonable prices and with a wide choice of leathers and colors. Those are all straps he made for me (including the green one I have on this watch).

bubba48 · Apr 15, 2021

DirtyDozen12
Very nice watch. It is neat to see another example that is just like @Syrte's. I would actually guess that the watch was invoiced in 1936. Your unsigned crown is correct. Here is a little 10.68Z (serial 5'324'xxx) I have that was invoiced to Ostersetzer (Italy) in June of 1936.

Nice Ref. 755

DirtyDozen12 · Apr 15, 2021

bubba48
Nice Ref. 755

Mine is actually a ref. 3541. I suppose that your watch has a cal. 12.68Z?

LRX_12 · Apr 16, 2021

So, extract already extracted !! Amazed by Longines job. Even more amazed that they will send me a paper copy for free.

Stainless steel watch powered by a 12.68z caliber. Sold in May 1936 to Ostersetzer in Italy.

@Syrte and @DirtyDozen12 you were absolutely correct!

LRX_12 · Apr 16, 2021

berrychlossom
@LRX_12 So far I've seen three of your watches and they're all amazing. Very tasteful collection

Thanks for the compliment ! Funny because I did not consider myself as a collector at all but considering the watches I acquired I think I might soon qualify as such. Yet, I do not have any "strategy" and acquire watches that look good to my eyes ! I find that there is something very special to wear watches that were manufactured almost one century ago. When I look at the craftmanship of these 30s/40s watches I am simply speechless.

Hijak · Apr 16, 2021

@Syrte , some very nice watches there!👍 Seriously nice straps too.

LRX_12 · Apr 16, 2021

Syrte
If you’re interested I know an Italian craftsman who can make one at very reasonable prices and with a wide choice of leathers and colors. Those are all straps he made for me (including the green one I have on this watch).

Thanks for he info, these straps are indeed very nice. Your watches are very nice as well.

I unexpectedly found a difference between our two watches. Indeed, on yours, the outer "railway track" has thicker railway crossings at each hour marker. Mine only has these thicker crossings at 3-6-9-12 hour markers. See below comparison. Interesting that even though I found almost the perfect similar watch it actually isn't!

Syrte · Apr 16, 2021

LRX_12
Thanks for he info, these straps are indeed very nice. Your watches are very nice as well.

I unexpectedly found a difference between our two watches. Indeed, on yours, the outer "railway track" has thicker railway crossings at each hour marker. Mine only has these thicker crossings at 3-6-9-12 hour markers. See below comparison. Interesting that even though I found almost the perfect similar watch it actually isn't!

Hijak
@Syrte , some very nice watches there!👍 Seriously nice straps too.

Thank you gentlemen, my watch is somewhat more patinated than the OP but I like those dial patterns.
Interesting to see the slight dial variation but I’m not surprised.

LRX_12 · Apr 17, 2021

So I contacted @Syrte strapmaker (thanks!)

What do you guys think would be a good match color-wise for a new strap? I was thinking about a blue strap (similar to the one Longines propose on their « heritage classic 1930 »). I think it can highlight the blued hands! Something like this:

Syrte · Apr 17, 2021

Navy blue really looks nice with blued hands— but I find the Longines Heritage strap the wrong style for their elegant watch, as it’s a casual strap with the side stitch.

So navy blue yes but not distressed, and no white stitches making the strap too busy, especially on a 15mm width. Here’s an example below of a proper color and style match IMHO (18mm - that was before I discovered the craftsman I mentioned).

You could also pick tan pigskin which was a style widely used for watches in those days.

LRX_12 · Apr 17, 2021

Yep, very nice strap @Syrte, exactly the color and style I was imagining on my watch (minus the rivets) ! Tanks for the suggestion.

I agree that the Longines Heritage strap is not period correct, more particularly the white side stitch.

I think a navy blue strap will look great on my watch !

LRX_12 · Apr 23, 2021

I just received the paper version of the Extract of the archives. Longines is just above the rest on that archive part!

In the meantime I ordered a strap from @Syrte strapmaker of choice. A truly nice gentleman and the incoming strap looks very promising. Will keep you updated when I get it 😉