If my watch keeps time well, does that mean it doesn't need service?

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The second watch that I ever serviced was given what I thought a good clean in my ultrasonic cleaner before careful assembly. The watch, that did not run before cleaning, then ticked away beautifully and kept good time.

After about a week it started going slow and eventually stopped. The reason for this was I had failed to clean the hard oil residue that was in the jewels. The new oil had softened this "varnish" over the week and caused it to expand and grip the pinions. This was only the second watch that I had serviced, but it was a good lesson learned.

All jewels are now carefully inspected and cleaned with pegwood.
 
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All jewels are now carefully inspected and cleaned with pegwood.

Peg wood is your friend - use it on every watch, with every jewel and every bushing...no matter if the watch is vintage, modern, etc.



Cheers, Al
 
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Nice post Al.

I have one question in mind: why the average daily rate is -1+11? I mean, why is more on the positive side? Why not -6 +6?
 
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Because I'm sure in Omega's experience (and also in mine) people prefer a watch to run slightly fast than slightly slow. In fact I would say people are generally more accepting of a watch that runs say 6 seconds fast a day, than one that runs even 1 second slow, even though the 1 second slow is more accurate. It's irrational in many respects, but that'/s the way it is with most people.

Cheers, Al
 
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Rather be early to the bus stop syndrome 馃う
 
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Well, I prefer an average but I wont fight against statistics.
 
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Well, I prefer an average but I wont fight against statistics.

Not sure what this means. The specs are -1 to +11 for the average daily rate, so we are already talking about an average. This is the average of the 3 positions all non-chronometer watches are measured over.

Omega also calls for a "target rate" in their specs, so for a chronometer grade watch, the specs allow for the average daily rate to be from -1 to +6 seconds per day, with the target rate set to +3. Now while in training I asked about the target rate, and the gist was that this is not terribly critical, but they want you to shoot for this without taking a huge amount of time to do it.

Cheers, Al
 
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Well, I was thinking to have the 0s on the average. This means to have a -6 + 6.
 
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I think you misunderstand what the numbers mean here - the -1 to +11 is the range that the average can fall within and still be within specs. It is already an average.
 
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Peg wood is your friend - use it on every watch, with every jewel and every bushing...no matter if the watch is vintage, modern, etc.



Cheers, Al
Here is an other dump question . How do you do to sharpen your pegwood ? Pencil sharpener ? . Why is pegwood better then toothpicks ? Sorry that was two questions .
 
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Peg wood is generally softer than the round wooden toothpicks, and you want it to be able to deform as you press it into the jewel, so that the tip actually goes through the hole in the smaller jewels. Keep in mind these holes can be quite small, so just a few hundredths of a mm. Most toothpicks I've tried are too hard for this.

You don't want the peg wood to be round where you have sharpened it, but you want it to be more or less triangular in cross section, so a point with 3 flat sides (can be more than three if you like). I sharpen it using an Exacto knife I keep at the bench, so 3 quick pulls of the knife at the tip and the peg wood is sharp.

Cheers, Al
 
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Won't find info like this on any other website! The best group of guys on the net.
 
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Thanks Al, (specifically from some 2 pages back) and also for your incredible enthusiasm to advise and assist consistently, to not only me, but every other member here, equally, also.

The latest "Omega Lifetime" magazine's theme of "The Masters," made me think of you. (Yeah, seriously) Having read, over the years, your detailed posts, perused your macro pictures, attempted to interpret your ideas, reasons. thoughts and explanations, not to mention consistently witnessing your patience, with your tools, and perhaps more so, with some "human tools!" I take my hat off to you.

I have to conclude, you're as good as the best of them, Mr Al Archer!. Well.. Comparisons to Stradivari may be stretching it a bit. (Sorry) And (again sorry) I'm sure your not as wealthy as Magnus Carlson, (think Chess Master) but you get the idea! For what it is worth, and I hope others here agree, I include you in "The Masters!" and a real gentleman taboot!

I do hope you are thinking more of your own health than you are of us!! You'd be a bloody healthy man if that were so!! .

Take care and thanks.
 
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Hi yande,

Well what can I say to that post but thanks very much. I'm glad that I am able to help people understand their watches better.

Cheers, Al
 
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I have an old Russian watch, bought from someone who pretended that the watch had been just serviced.
The problem is that I wound it up completely this morning because I had not wore it for a week and it didn;t start. After a couple of shakes it started.
Should I serviced it?
 
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I would say so. If you had to bump start your car, you would certainly have to have it checked out.
 
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Archer, If the watch is keeping good time, what is a reasonable time period before it should be serviced? I have a Tag Carerra with the Calibre 16 movement that I had serviced 2 years ago. Is 2-3 years reasonable or 4-5? Is 4-5 years too long?
Thanks