Adding length to stem

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There are many ways to fix this, as the previous comments illustrate. The correct method is a new stem, but it's your watch, so really up to you...
 
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I would think another stem is very easy to find ?? and by far the best option. Even if to long just cut it ..... oh no - dont cut it 馃う
 
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I mean, esslinger sells the extenders just for the purpose so I assume it's not out of common practice. Though you'd have to clip the existing one down to accommodate the length of the extender. So it's possible it would seem but I'm just a newbie bench jockey.

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-stems-and-stem-extenders/

Just a quick comment...

I would caution that because something is made for a purpose, that it is an indication that it's well suited for that purpose. Often nothing could be further from the truth.

The watch repairing world has had so many products and tools come on the market that were terribly bad ideas, it's astounding. Case in point is one that pretty much everyone can agree on - products like "solo lube" that are a cleaner and lubricant in one. They are for "dunk and swish" style operations where the movement isn't disassembled. Parts that would be harmed by the solvent are removed, and the assembled movement is dipped in the solution, swirled around, excess dried off, and you are done.

Stem extenders are not anywhere near this level of horological debauchery (I've actually seen them used OEM with some smaller brands that used a small movement and a huge case), but the ideal solution is a new stem. So if you are going to go to the trouble of ordering something, ordering a new stem would be the preferred solution.
 
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The problems with some of the extenders is the diameter is larger and may have issues fitting through the tube.

Has the problem been solved?
 
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The problems with some of the extenders is the diameter is larger and may have issues fitting through the tube.

Has the problem been solved?
Won鈥檛 be solved for a few weeks until I can get the watch back to handy friend.
 
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Just a quick comment...

I would caution that because something is made for a purpose, that it is an indication that it's well suited for that purpose. Often nothing could be further from the truth.

The watch repairing world has had so many products and tools come on the market that were terribly bad ideas, it's astounding. Case in point is one that pretty much everyone can agree on - products like "solo lube" that are a cleaner and lubricant in one. They are for "dunk and swish" style operations where the movement isn't disassembled. Parts that would be harmed by the solvent are removed, and the assembled movement is dipped in the solution, swirled around, excess dried off, and you are done.

Stem extenders are not anywhere near this level of horological debauchery (I've actually seen them used OEM with some smaller brands that used a small movement and a huge case), but the ideal solution is a new stem. So if you are going to go to the trouble of ordering something, ordering a new stem would be the preferred solution.

I appreciate the insights to "answers" vs "solutions" as it's hard to determine the difference between the two when one is just starting out. It's hard to know what it correct vs what is accepted.
 
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I appreciate the insights to "answers" vs "solutions" as it's hard to determine the difference between the two when one is just starting out. It's hard to know what it correct vs what is accepted.

I hear you. I'm not telling people what to do really, just offering that there are better, and less better ways of doing things.
 
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Quartz movement - I see super glue used often (Fossils, etc)
Manual wind movement will see more torque required. Best way is a new stem. Be careful this time!!
If it's a beater that will not be sold (you are not a flipper), then good enough to hold forever works. Only you will know it's a kluge 馃槈
 
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I didn't really understand the problem, when you unscrew the crown from the stem a little, so that it engages, does the stem screw come out of the crown?

If not, loctite is a solution like suggested?

Maybe it's a bad practice and I never learned how to do this either, but I always use green loctite
 
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I didn't really understand the problem, when you unscrew the crown from the stem a little, so that it engages, does the stem screw come out of the crown?

If not, loctite is a solution like suggested?

Maybe it's a bad practice and I never learned how to do this either, but I always use green loctite

Most crowns only have maybe 4 threads or so of depth available. If you are trying to cheat and back the crown off a couple of threads, that doesn't leave much stem there for the crown to actually grip on...

Personally, I would not rely on this method to repair the issue, when putting in a new stem takes a couple of minutes.
 
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Most crowns only have maybe 4 threads or so of depth available. If you are trying to cheat and back the crown off a couple of threads, that doesn't leave much stem there for the crown to actually grip on...

Personally, I would not rely on this method to repair the issue, when putting in a new stem takes a couple of minutes.
Yeah, I haven鈥檛 deal with the issue yet but will just order a new stem when it gets into the cue. This time I will make sure he measures twice and cuts once 馃う
 
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Nothing to add here except that title, jesus that title... pretty sure I heard my wife utter that title on our wedding night.
You heard the man, STUFF IT IN.
Probably also heard during one's wedding night.
 
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I didn't really understand the problem, when you unscrew the crown from the stem a little, so that it engages, does the stem screw come out of the crown?

If not, loctite is a solution like suggested?

Maybe it's a bad practice and I never learned how to do this either, but I always use green loctite

Henry's book says 2 part epoxy but that seems outdated. If I go to the Loctite page and do their selector for small parts, tight fit, metal on metal, I end up with their Power Grab Ultimate Crystal Clear Construction Adhesive but I that's going to be permanent.

I was thinking purple but green would probably be ok too.
 
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Henry's book says 2 part epoxy but that seems outdated. If I go to the Loctite page and do their selector for small parts, tight fit, metal on metal, I end up with their Power Grab Ultimate Crystal Clear Construction Adhesive but I that's going to be permanent.

I was thinking purple but green would probably be ok too.

You want a thread locker - I use red when I do use it. Heat can be used to remove the crown if needed, but generally you won't be changing the stem or crown until the crown is toast anyway.
 
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You want a thread locker - I use red when I do use it. Heat can be used to remove the crown if needed, but generally you won't be changing the stem or crown until the crown is toast anyway.

I thought red would be too much -- better have it perfectly fit! 馃榾

Thanks for the tips as usual.
 
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I thought red would be too much -- better have it perfectly fit! 馃榾

Thanks for the tips as usual.

Well, you test fit before you put the Loctite on...馃槈
 
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Well, you test fit before you put the Loctite on...馃槈

You mean it's not cut thrice, measure never? Shit.
 
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Well, you test fit before you put the Loctite on...馃槈

This is pertinent for me too, I'm working on my first crown/stem replacement. I really do appreciate all the help, I wouldn't feel nearly as confident going into this without all your previous mentoring. I know it's not the same as in-person teaching, but it's helpful nonetheless.